Question About Cleaning.

OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.

I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.

I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.

I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.

Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.

Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.

Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.

What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.

This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.

The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.

Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.

Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!  

I figured this would be the Second best place to put this question but the other forum doesn't produce any replies. So I posted it here. Simple answer if you know what to use to glue glass to metal and will be non toxic!

On to the question, I have a first generation Kanger Protank where the body, glass bit, is glued to the bottom metal piece that screws into the Skirted piece of an eGo battery adaptor. One friend was using the glass piece to screw the Protank onto and off of her mod and to refill the ejuice. Short story shorter she popped the glass piece of the first gen Protank.

Big question part, what type of adhesive should I use to "GLUE" the Glass to the bottom metal Piece. Something that is non toxic and will survive the repeated stresses of day to day use that a Protank would encounter?

Thank you for your understanding, Moderator's, the Cross Post.  

Whenever I clean my coils and pop it back in, I always get a very bad muted taste. Worse then it was when it was "dirty".... so my question is, is cleaning really worth it? Its never once paid off for me  

Hi, despite all the info on the internet these days, I ve been unable to find an answer to what is the life use of a wire on a rta coil (not the cotton or liquids) before it gets exhausted and become a bad element to health, maybe to the point of releasing metal particles that could go into the lungs... I know this is highly relative and depends on what kind of wire, liquids and vaping frecuency, but if I give you a straight case, maybe I ll make a good relation between other materials and their durability. It happened that during 2020, with the pandemic on full first impact, importations were very slow and in some cases, closed for long periods of time, I was trying to get some imported wires but I didn't have enough luck to find those I needed, just very thin wire for mtl equipment, which I didn't have. All was sold out from vaping websites... I ve managed to get a Zeus X rta and with it, the included premade coils (I think these are Nichrome)... Thing is, I used the same (and only) metal coil for almost 6 months, obviously replacing the cotton when needed (I had all the other materials, bags of cotton Bacon, tools, fresh liquids, etc), the liquid I ve been using is Don Juan sweet tobbaco and reserve, from King Crest. In those six moths I didn't vape all days or weeks, since finding or importing liquids were also a problem, so confinement and the lack of products, push me to smoke again, sadly, but I didn't give up and I start to build again the coil meanwhile the purchases arrive from other countries. The metal coil doesn't seems to be exhaust in plain view, it gets datk or black, as normally should be after several days of use and when tasting a bit burnt, but once I clean up with a brush, water and some short dry burning when building again, it gets back its grey metal color, not the same shine as a new one, but close. My vaping frequency was sometimes in chain, due to anxiety, but not all day or days and I was careful to rebuilt often. Mods are one Aegis X and one Smok P3, wattage I use is between 40 and 60 because even if the coils can be auto detected and suggestion is 75w, this is always overrated and burning taste triggers in 3 days. Only thing I did notice was sort of a metal taste for a period of time, that after went away and never got back. If someone wants to drop an answer, be welcome please, thank you all...  

Sundays at work are slow, we rarely see customers, so we mainly focus on store tech work and upkeep. My coworker and I finished all the back orders about 3 hours into an 8 hour shift. My Nemesis mod was getting pretty dirty and I haven't had a chance to clean the metal up in a few days, I also noticed the finish was getting very dull, nothing a bit of sand paper wont fix!

unfortunately I forgot to take a before picture, so sorry for lack of reference.

I started by using some 800 grit sand paper to remove the finish, then polished the mod with some 1200 grit for a smooth finish. the threads got cleaned, and every bit of oxidization was cleared off. going to finish it off with some 200 grit tomorrow and then give it a clear epoxy coat, but for now she is shiny and chuckin the vapes in style.

 

Cleaning some old drip tips today and I feel sick. More reason to keep everything clean.
Luckily it’s an atty just lying about with (two specifically, but these aren’t even chimneys and decks, just two old drip tips)

I checked my current straight after and it’s crystal clean.
I’ll make sure it always remains that way. How often do you guys clean your attys?
 

Okay so my question will be about two mods i currently own, a turtleship v2 mod and a nemesis mod (both clones). So first the turtleship: is there a way to clean the parts so it hits as hard as when i first got it? i dont get much of a hit but theres still lots of clouds when i exhale. Ive tried cleaning the pins and parts but still the same thing happens. As for the nemesis, i dont have that problem but when im inhaling it feels like my hand is being lightly shocked from the mod. Is this normal? Should i be worried and not use it anymore? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!  

So i have one question,i have seen there are interchangeable metal frames for Aegis mini will there be a interchangeable metal frames for Aegis boost ? Does anybody have info on that?  

Hi,

Just wondering how to get a good clean of dirt and juice residue buildup on airflow base part for tanks and rda's. I find this part to be the hardest to clean. Not sure if you can run it under water or just try and get into the itty bitty cracks and crannies with a paper towel like I currently do. The tanks I use are mainly Nautlus Minis and Subtanks. The RDA's are freakshow, derringer, tobh, magma, etc. HOW do you get a good clean on the AIRFLOW CONTORL BASE/VALVE​?  

I've been using my Atlantis on a Kamry K101, and just got hold of a Kbox because I wanted to boost power. Unfortunately, the Atlantis won't fire on the Kbox. Charge indicator shows battery full charge, but it won't fire on any wattage selection.

The Atlantis I'm using fires fine on other batteries I've tried, and the Kbox fires an iClear 30S with no problem - it just seems the Atlantis/Kbox combo doesn't want to work together. The contacts on tank/battery are clean, no gunk or liquid in them.

I've tried Googling the issue, but all I'm mainly finding is people recommending the two together as a good combo.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the problem?

Thanks in advance for any help.