Xtar Authenticity Code?

so i just got an Xtar from EdisonBright, and the authenticity code is 18 digits, but its broke up into 3 sets of 5 not 4 like the site. i tried entering it and it said "does not exist" but it came in a pretty legit looking box, inside the box was a grey Xtar drawstring, inside that was the device, a phamplet, and a warranty card with a sticker with a 12 digit S/N on it... is there any other way to tell real v fake? it seems to work fine, i put a battery charged in a Nitecore on it and it charged it for a couple minutes, then said blinked "full" at me... btw its a VC2.... anyone know whats up with this?  


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Xtar Vc2s Charger Question

Hey guys,

I finally updated my charger a few days ago (I think before I had the VP2) or something like that. Quick question on something I'm noticing that seems a bit odd to me.

When I charge (for example 18650's), a battery that's fully charged in channel 1...it flashes FULL/0.00 mA, I remove the battery. A few minutes later, I'll put the battery back in the same bay, and all of a sudden there are a few hundred mA's that show up on the screen that need to be charged back into the battery and it takes a few minutes for channel 1 to recognize the battery is fully charged and flash FULL/0.00mA again (although it does show above that's fully charged at 4.2v).

If I take that same battery and do the same test but this time in channel 2, within a few seconds it recognizes that the battery is fully charged and flashes FULL/0.00mA. So it seems channel 1 is not working as well as channel 2 is, when it comes to recognizing information from the battery.

Is this normal for this charger or do I have a defective charger?  

Fake/phoney Vs. Authentic/legit Apvs - Really?

i always see people bringing it up, "make sure it comes with a security check code" for alot of apvs out.


in all of the time ive ben vaping - i have NEVER seen a fake mvp, istick, or anything else of that nature, besides an ego battery or evod battery/tank cloned.


since those are more of a "style" type thing, i understand them being copied - but name brand devices like MVP, istick, sieglie and the rest, i have never seen a "copy" that used THEIR brand name.


never seen one for the mvp, but i know the istick has a few "sisters" out - with different brand names - obviously not trying to copy/infringe.






has any one ever seen any fake avps? and i mean FAKE.  

Snow Wolf/ Segelei Warranty

I have a snowwolf mini by sigelei kit and the mod has gone Haywire one day after the retailer warranty ended. My question is which warranty service should I contact? Sigelei is the parent company. Snowwolf is the branding that they're using I guess for this kit. Both sites have their own warranty contact information and I'm not sure which one to contact the little warranty card mentions nothing about the snowwolf but on the sigelei site the authenticity check does not work only on the snowwolf site so I don't really know which one to go through. If anyone's had any experience with this that would be great. I've heard mixed reviews but I would like to at least attempt to warranty this product seeing as how I've only owned two sigeleis and both of them went bad with in 31 days. It's worth a try anyway  

Charging 21700 Battery At 2000 Mah

Hi
I just got a Xtar VC2s charger for my 21700 batteries (Samsung 40T).
Chose that charger also because it "charges at safe low current".

When it charges 2 batteries, it's at about 1000 mAh for each battery. All good.
But when charging only one battery, it charges it at 2000 mAh. Hmm?

I assume 2000 mAh is still "safe".. But won't that reduce lifespan on the battery?

The charger manual says "when the power supply is insufficient, the charger will reduce the charge current correspondingly".
So maybe I should get a usb power supply with like 1000 mAh output?

I will only be charging one battery at a time, and prefer charging slowly if that gives more safety and lifespan.

But I don't know if charging at 2000 mAh is really an issue..  

Best Of The Best Charger?

Hey folks.
Title pretty much says it all. Invested in a collection of aw from rtd. Found that my el cheapo charger was getting them to 4.3. Figured it was time to invest. Most of the threads I found where pretty dated.
So... There's the nitecore d series. The pila (didn't research this one a lot) or the xtar.
Finding pros and cons to each. What's your up to date opinion?  

Battery Revival

Herro!

So, I always used to use mech mods from about 6 months to a year and a half into vaping. For the last 6 months I've been on regulated (iStick 30W and 50W).

When I switched to regulated I retired my mech mods and 18650 batteries to the closet. I made sure they were all around 50% charged because I heard from someone on here that was the best condition to leave them.

Well recently I've had this curiosity to try them again, only for at home use, mainly for the novelty of it.

So, my question is, what will I have to do to revive these batteries? Are they safe to just throw back on the charger and use when fully charged? Or are they not safe to use?

Batteries: 4 Sony VTC 4's (all were acquired about a month before I stopped using mechs), 2 XTAR (Sony) VTC 4's (about a year old now) , 2 MXJO 2500mah (20A LG's) (about a year old now).

Let me know! Thank you!

Vape Happy,
Cullin Kin  

Eleaf Istick Secturity Code Not Working

So I ordered an Eleaf Istick 50watt from Vapenw.com and when it came I tried to verify it's authenticity.
It looks legit, the only thing I noticed that's different from most I've seen is the Istick logo on the top next to the connector. I paid 44$ for it so I'm not upset it works like a beast I just wanna make 100% sure that its real just in case I need parts or such.

The code is in a format like so

0000 1111
2222 3333

I can't figure out how to enter the code, I've tried from left to right top to bottom and from top to bottom and left to right.

It does have the torque screws though which most if not all clones lack.  

About A Trade Gone Bad

done here in the classifieds , the mod arrived soaked in juice and only showed "low battery" on the display, I was not impressed, so I reached out to Dovpo USA, (it was a Topside) left a couple messages with Doug but never heard anything so I sent it in and hoped for the best, two weeks later , still no reply, now I'm nervous , so I called Doug, who I only know because of his voice mail and leave a message again asking about my mod and well what do you know he calls back and the mod is toasted , no good, "corroded inside like it had been dropped in the pool/hot tub" , any way Doug from Dovpo sent me a new Topside because he felt bad I got ripped off despite no warranty on Topside, so new positive opinion of Dovpo has been formed where there was none before,  

Samsung Battery Authenticity

Taking the advice of ECF members, I'm planning on buying Samsung INR18650 25R batteries for a 30w device (as opposed to my current Panasonic that has a 6ish max amp output). My local vendor has them, but two things are strange to me.
1.) Their price is actually a little cheaper than Fasttechs, usually products there are quite more expensive
2.) They are green, while FT and a couple other places i've googled has them as blue

This is the vendor site:
Baterija Samsung INR18650 25R 2500mAh - 18650 - Li-on, Ni-Mh baterije - Baterije i punjači E cigarete | E tekućine
This is how they look pretty much everywhere else:
$9.75 Authentic Samsung INR18650-25R 3.6V 2500mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries (2-Pack) - 35A peak discharge / 22A continuous discharge at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

So are the batteries from the first site fake or what's the deal with that?
 

Mod Acts Up With Certain Batteries

Is there a logical reason why a mod would just randomly shut off very frequently when using one brand of battery and do it much less often with another? And this isn't a situation where I'm only referring to a single battery this is any battery of one type doesn't work well and any battery of the other type that I've tried does. * this is a long post if you don't want to read the whole thing you could just answer that question and that would provide me with a lot of information

My snowwolf mini mod which is the sigelei product not the original snowwolf is having a fairly common issue where occasionally the whole device just turns off. Then you have to loosen the battery cap pull the battery out so it's not making a connection and then put the battery back in and it turns back on. I've seen this reported multiple times. Now when I was using Samsung batteries it was really bad like I would get maybe two Puffs before it would shut off. But with LG batteries it seems like I can use the product almost like normal. Like I can get a good half day usage out of it before it has a problem and then I take the battery out put it back in and I get another few hours.

I know that there is a slight variance in size between these batteries or at least it seems like there is because my drip box gets the Samsungs stuck in it but not the LG which I solve by taking the stupid sticker off of them not the wrap the sticker.

Now I've only had this for 31 days so while it is past the stores warranty it's not past sigelei or snowwolf. I'm debating on whether or not I even want to worry about this warranty situation because if it continues working the way it is as long as I use LG batteries I would rather not take the chance of getting a much worse product. I feel like it's going to be hard to get them to warranty it and at the very least I have a month or two to figure this out.
My question is why would it do this why would it work so much better with one kind of battery and be nearly unusable with the other and also like why would it do this in the first place at all why would it just randomly shut off the batteries are good it's definitely the mod my first thought would be that there's a short but why would one battery cause a short and not the other or at least not as frequently?

I've had such bad luck with sigelei products that I honestly believe if I try to warranty this they're just going to send me a broken device LOL how does that work if they send me a broken device can I warranty that product? Do I get another 90 days? Or do I get the rest of my warranty period carried over from the first device? Or is it a situation where you only get one warranty and then if a device breaks again you're out of luck