Adjustable Connector

I just watched a review for this new RDA, and I'm very interested. Has anyone used/bought one yet? RT had issues with the o-rings failing which a cause for concern, but other than that it looks awesome. Lots and lots of airflow options.

Manufactured by Sparkle Technology which appears to the 'authentic' subdivision of Infinite, a well known producer of quality clones.

Features:
12 different adjustable airflow combinations. 22mm diameter. Copper adjustable 510 connector. PEEK internal AFC rings and base for optimal thermal regulation. Engineered to create a vortex inside the chamber. 303 grade stainless steel. Solid three post setup for durability on dual or single coil builds. Posts are squared for even better reliability.

 

The width and thread size of the 510 connector is standardized, but why is the length not?

I tried my best to understand why not from a design or engineering standpoint, but I can't work it out. Not only would it make life simpler when changing attys. But it would eliminate screw and spring loaded 510 pin adjustment, and all the the issues associated with them.

Any ideas anyone?  

So i think ive stripped the threads on my iStick 50w, my tank seems to cross thread all the time and it doesnt screw on first time all the time.

Can i get replacements or have i ballsed my istick up?​
 

Hello All, I have a question regarding the modification of an rda adjustable positive pin to work (better & safely) with a hybrid connection top on a new mech I purchased. The mod is not a true hybrid since it has the flush sitting 510 threaded top cap without a pin inside, allowing the atty to make direct contact with the battery.
My question is, can you take out the adjustable positive pin and put a kind of insulating "washer" between the pin and the negative threads to ensure the outer threads do not make contact with the positive terminal on the battery? I would also like to put a better, wider pin in that will make a better connection and not indent the positive terminal on the batt. Anyone have any advice for this?  

I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?

I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws

Thanks for any help  

I have the Smok Mag Grip (18650 battery), the vaporesso cascade tank and vaporesso .5 ohm coil which i love. I vape very cool, on watts the lowest recommended which is 25 it's even a bit high for me. I was wondering about using TC, the coils are SS316L, so i set it to steel, 25Watts, but then it asks for another number which i believe is the "TCR" it is adjustable from 0.00010 to 0.00300. I have no idea what to set the last number at. The ceramic coils are great, low power, great flavor and they last a long time, just wondering if I can get better results in TC vs just Watts. Thanks! Oh and e juice is vg based Lazarus Vintage: Journey(still the best ive ever had for 5 Years)  

I can't screw this part in. It falls every time, I don't know if I am missing anything, maybe it's not even supposed to screw in. But still, everywhere I checked, it seems those parts are well connected where as in my case it drops off.  

I ordered two of these batteries from FastTech. The cheap price and high capacity (without having a mod or some awkward huge battery) attracted me to them. Some two weeks later they show up...

I have two Puff King chargers that came with starter kits we bought at a B&M store. We've been using them with Tripl3 eGo batteries, one Puff King battery (and another Puff King battery, which was taken back and exchanged for another eGo-T battery, which broke), and so far no problems screwing any batteries in. These two from FT show up however and neither will screw into one Puff King charger, but they both did into the other (same charger, down to the model number and everything). Now, one battery from FT still screws in, but the other doesn't.

I took the non screwing in battery to a local B&M store and the guy there was able to screw it into one of their chargers. He handed it to me, and I unscrewed it, screwed it back in, unscrewed it again, and then neither of us could screw it in again. Now I have one battery from FT that will screw into one of my chargers, but not the other. The other battery will charge, but it has to just like sit in the charger and hope the connection stays okay for it to charge. I still have no problems screwing any of my other batteries into either charger, just these ones from FT. Also, it's worth mentioning that the FT batteries never seemed to screw in right... it always felt weird and finicky getting it to go in.

What's up with these batteries? They claim to be eGo/510 threaded, just like my other batteries. They look just like my other batteries too, except they won't screw in right...  

Some people build and drive them. Others do this:
400w 80A Delta - Imgur

Specs:

80A/400W Delta Delphi DC/DC Converter with custom designed breakout board Red Powdercoat Diecast Aluminum Hammond 1590BBS and N52 Magnetic Door IRLB3034PBF MOSFET switching Venom 3S 40C 2200mAh LiPo Battery Pack with XT60 connector Low Profile FatDaddy v4 Spring loaded 510 connector  

My hypertank won't screw on mvp 2. One minute it worked then after I cleaned it, change the atomizer, and filled the the tank up with juice, it started to have problems. I tried my nautilus and that works on the mvp 2. Is there something I could do to the hypertank to fix it? Right before this happened I just ordered a pack of atomizers. Thanks for any help.