OK - so my nemesis clone from FT has been looking kinda ganky lately. The patina had gotten to a splotchy brown stage. The performance has been suffering too. I had ordered a "hybrid style" connecter to delete the top ring with the posi contact. However, in order to get it to fire, I had to back my negative contact screw out a half turn. The button had gotten both finicky (as a result of the backing out of the negative pin - not recommended procedure) and crunchy (wear, dirt, loose fitting, and poor spring alignment). The whole mod felt cheap and I had to keep careful tab on that negative post.
I decided it was time to spend some effort on my old faithful.
I ordered from Fat Daddy their tobh upgrade kit, which comes with a longer positive post bottom screw for my atty, as well as the nemesis ultimate upgrade kit. They arrived this morning.
I stripped the mod down to individual pieces. All non thread, non plated surfaces got sanded with 800 grit wet or dry. Then, every piece of metal (including the rice pin, and careful extra attention to the threads) got cleaned with paper towel, then paper towel soaked in alcohol (common rubbing alcohol). Dropped the whole mess into a cup full of white vinegar and walked away for an hour.
Followed that up with Mr Clean magic eraser coated with Flitz metal polish. Lots and lots of rubbing, but even the threads shine like mirrored surfaces. Then I coated all the threads with flitz and did a lot of screwing and unscrewing of the various pieces.
Follow up the mirror polish with vinegar then alcohol baths. Seal all threads with just a barely there light coating of Noalox. Reassemble using the fat daddy magnets and extended negative contact pin.
Gave my Tobh clone the same treatment, reassembled with the new screws.
What difference! Not only does the mod fire properly with the negative post screwed in properly while using the "hybrid" top cap insert (making the whole rig look super sexy) but the whole unit feels and operates like a much higher end piece. The button feels great, like I've never felt. Super smooth, and the constant pressure resistance from the Fat Daddy magnets really makes the button feel classy and well made, nothing like the light duty springs it used to have.
This mod hits harder now than it ever did. I really used to balk and doubt on all those who would make comments about Vdrop in a mech, and how hard one hits over another. Well, I'm eating some crow now, 'cause I'm a believer. It's not super duper different in its performance, but it is certainly noticeable.
The magnets are almost too strong. I can put the mod down unlocked, and not only doesn't it fire, but the button doesn't budge, and the mod doesn't wobble any more than my stainless SMPL clone sitting next to it. Really makes the button feel heavy duty and sturdy. Quite the opposite of the chitzy cheap feel it had yesterday.
Overall, I am super glad I decided to put some real effort in to fixing all of the complaints I've been developing with this work horse mod. I've had it for eighteen months, and used it as my one and only for twelve of those, so it's been a good and loyal friend. Now it really looks and feels like it's gotten the love it deserved.
Oh - and a super plug for Fat Daddy - fit and finish for all the parts were impeccable. Materials high quality. Shipping fast. Price reasonable. All told, a real class act!
Hello All, I have a question regarding the modification of an rda adjustable positive pin to work (better & safely) with a hybrid connection top on a new mech I purchased. The mod is not a true hybrid since it has the flush sitting 510 threaded top cap without a pin inside, allowing the atty to make direct contact with the battery.
My question is, can you take out the adjustable positive pin and put a kind of insulating "washer" between the pin and the negative threads to ensure the outer threads do not make contact with the positive terminal on the battery? I would also like to put a better, wider pin in that will make a better connection and not indent the positive terminal on the batt. Anyone have any advice for this?
I paid $250 bux for a full set up a while back, and the little inner copper firing pin contact broke, right where the thread screw into the bottom button. I got the broken piece out of the button threads, but I need a new copper contact pin. I went to the store and they said they don't have it, and they cant contact the manufacturer.
I am so irritated at the customer service there. I have spent well over a couple grand on crap from them over the years and they basically told me "oh well, that sucks, buy a new one"
Im hoping that someone on here can either help point me in the right direction of someone to talk to that makes the Turtleship V3 Mod, or someone that might have a replacement part. It cant be more than a couple bucks for the little piece. I would of expected them to contact the manufacturer and just give me the replacement pin for free.
Once I have the money I am going to buy something like a hexohm or similar 100w box mod, but until then, I need to fix this, and plus I want to have it as a back up for if my boxmod goes out and needs to be fixed. Given that, I have a seperate question on who you guys think has the best customer service and warranty for box mods? What are the "flagship" devices on the market with all the bells and whistles and most reliable / durable build design?
Thanks a lot for any help you guys can offer as far as being able to get my mech mod fixed. Id have to just throw 200 bux in the trash.
Help! :/
I have had a lot of mis fires on my Smokless Owl 25.00 squonker and had to press down extra hard
and sometimes side ways to get it to fire.
I just done some contact cleaning and scraping on the Smokless Owl Button.
I took my wifes Emory board finger nail file thingy and depressed the firing button and held it depressed and rubbed it
across the firing pin and then took a small jewlers screwdriver and scratched it back and forth across the end of the pin and
did the same thing to botton ground pin.
I noticed some black color on the end of the firing pin before I started this cleaning process.
I gently took the screw driver and scratched back and forth across the positive and negative end of the battery just to
take any small film or oxidation from the ends just to make a better connection.
It seems to fire now just like it should with no MISFIRES---mod is now perfect !
Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?
This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.
Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.
- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.
- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.
- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.
- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.
- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).
- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.
- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.
- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.
- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.
- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).
If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.
Sundays at work are slow, we rarely see customers, so we mainly focus on store tech work and upkeep. My coworker and I finished all the back orders about 3 hours into an 8 hour shift. My Nemesis mod was getting pretty dirty and I haven't had a chance to clean the metal up in a few days, I also noticed the finish was getting very dull, nothing a bit of sand paper wont fix!
unfortunately I forgot to take a before picture, so sorry for lack of reference.
I started by using some 800 grit sand paper to remove the finish, then polished the mod with some 1200 grit for a smooth finish. the threads got cleaned, and every bit of oxidization was cleared off. going to finish it off with some 200 grit tomorrow and then give it a clear epoxy coat, but for now she is shiny and chuckin the vapes in style.
dropped my SMPL clone. got dinged up pretty bad. tried to fix it, but it's bent out of shape. copper so figure. the button was not backing out all the way. fixed to a point where the button is functioning, but don't feel all that safe. ordered a new one. i like SMPL a lot. looks very plain jane, but works like a champ.
Hi, folks:
My order arrived in NYC from Mt Baker in 48 hours! Yay! I still have two full packs of cigs! Wow! I'm a happy girl! But ...
There're no directions for my battery. Mariel at Mt Baker had emailed me that to use the Kanger EVOD 1600, I should press the button, and if that didn't work, I should press the button five times fast, and that'd work. That made the light come on, but when I went to smoke it, the light was off. It appears that when I want to smoke, I need to hold the button down. Is that right? That seems like a pain in my bottom.
Worse, when I smoke, I cough so hard, I cough a lung up. I guess getting the 24mg wasn't a good idea after all. There's a place nine blocks from here called "Smoke Shop," so I MAY be in luck, but I live in the hood, so my hopes aren't too high. Still, how badly can they mess up some plain juice? I guess I'll find out, because I need to water this stuff down. Right? Is that what I need to do? That's my goal; what am I looking for? Is I get plain glycerin, I'll water down the flavor. Am I looking for, say, some Blood Orange with no nicotine?
Man, is this device ever BIG. I'm very slender, and this thing is about the size of my forearm. And the Blood Orange tastes good enough to eat, but bloody hell; I've coughed up my liver after three hits.
Do do I need to turn this thing off somehow? It looks off, but do I need to press the button five times to turn it off? Since it doesn't come with any instrux, I have no idea whether it's sitting there killing its battery.
It comes with a sleeve that sits between the tank and the battery, but it doesn't fit snugly, so it rattles. I guess a better word is "jingles."
The medium-sized case I bought doesn't hold anything but the charger and the spare tank. Oh: I guess the coils will fit in there, too. Sure doesn't fit a whole kit like in the photo! I don't think this gizmo will fit in the clutch purse I carry around. (It's really small.) I'm gonna hafta buy a bigger purse!
So far, I'm not a happy vaper yet, but I'll get there. I hope I will, anyway! Thanks for some tips!
Binky
I have a cherry bomber box mod. I love the thing, only gripe is the bloody button! I swapped the spring and put some magnets in it. It still has that loose feel to it l, is there any way to corrects this problem?
Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.
Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.
People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.
I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.
I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.
I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!
What are some purchases that you guys made that you regret?
For me, it was the Nemesis Clone mod. That terrible piece of machinery went wrong in literally every single way it could've. Don't even get me started on the little pen that had to be stuck in the button in order for it to fire.....
Go!