Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts
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So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again
A bit of a technical question, I'm messing around with heat flux equations so as to calculate sweet spots on some of my more complex builds. If I want to run around 300 mW/mm² and my heat flux for a coil is 4.28 mW/mm² per watt, how do I calculate this? I think I know but I just want to be sure. Thanks in advance for any help.
So I've been building my own coils for a short period of time and I'm looking to better understand how my coils can affect my vaping experience, specifically varying ohms and wattage's.
I've been building mainly only one coil as I'm still trying to better understand the basics of coils and more importantly wicking. Ofc all I hear these days is how sub ohming is the best and with all the sub ohm devices I feel like I may be missing out on something if I'm not at .5 or below.
The coil I've been wrapping is a 28g .9 ohm single coil. If I were to go lower, how does this affect my vape on a regulated device? Unless I'm missing something, only the heat flux and quickness to heat would be affected right by lower resistance (given a set wattage)?
I have a new istick 30w that I use with a smok micro adc2. I've used it with a new 2 ohm coil at 8 watts and is great. I changed to a used coil I had cleaned and things got weird. It's a 2 ohm coil and the istick is reading it at 4.9! At 8 watts the throat hit was too much so I went down to 6 watts. According to the manual the istick doesn't even fire to 4.9 ohms. So let's see what you got?
hi all
I have a mvp 3 and I use iclear 30 tanks 1.9 to 2.1 ohms
im vapeing at 12 watts 5.1 volts and have been for a few weeks now
everything was fine until today right now in fact hence the reason for this question
I refilled my tank and screwed it back on my mvp when I pressed the button to vape
it reads the ohms and volts and wattage the wattage was as normal 12 watts
the volts were 7.1 and the ohms were 6.0 totally unvapable and burnt tasting
(I should also point out that the volts and watts are locked in on the mvp)
I have also tried the tanks on other devices and still the same issue
which leads me to believe its the tanks at fault and not the device
I have been vapeing long enough to understand the reasons for burnt taste
and the causes and solutions to rectify it but I have never had this happen before
I tried other tanks and the same has happened except for one which works fine
does anyone have any idea whats going on
thanks
steve
So I've been using a Kayfun v4 and provari p3 using the hybrid connector and have never been able to get th ohms below 2 using .2mm guage kanthal bought from Vape escape one 2 mm coiling tool and about 6 wraps was initially happy with that but after reading the results other users are having they typically end up around 1.2 1.4 ohms using far more wraps then I have been using I tried to increase my coil diameter to 2.5 mm and the ohms exploded to 5 ohms making it unusable I have noticed that my spring in the Kayfun gets incredibly dirty and charred with what I can describe only as soot if anyone has any insights into what could be going on I would much appreciate it ive been enjoying my Kayfun but I'm still looking for that mind blowing Vape I keep reading about
Somehow, I inadvertently pushed the buttons just wrong today and it went from 7 watts (my usual power setting) to 50 watts (the highest setting). I didn't even mean to push any of those buttons.
I experienced instant burnout and a horrible taste in my mouth and the coil was instantly ruined.
Do people really vape at such high power? If so, how often do you have to replace the coil? And how many ohms are you putting that through? The coil I replaced it with is 1.77 ohms which is about the same as the one I burned out.
50 watts seems so excessive to me that I double-checked and yes, that's what it says it goes up to. Even at 7.5 watts the coils seem to burn out too fast which is why I vape at 7.
I feel like Nigel Tufnel designed this thing. "But it goes to 50. That's 43 higher than 7. So it's like 43 more. So when you're vaping at 7 watts and you want that extra push over the cliff..."
(I'm actually impressed that Nigel could do the math to figure that 50 was 43 higher than 7)
Ok I'm hoping I don't get heat for these questions/statements but educating ones self especially with something that is still very new is important to me.
1. Read some articles on how there is second hand vape similar to cigarettes (99% better mind you) what are your thoughts? Vaping may not be as safe as smokers think, research suggests | Society | The Guardian
2. Formaldehyde found in builds running at high watts/voltage? But 0% at low/normal builds, what i can't seem to find is whats considered to high for a Mechanical Mod or even for a V/W, V/V Setup? My normal build for a mech mod is twisted single coil 24 gauge 6-7 wraps, usually gets about 0.28 ohms and single coil 8 wraps of 24 gauge puts out 0.73 ohms on my flavor builds.
Before You Vape: High levels of Formaldehyde Hidden in E-Cigs - NBC News
Just curious what wattage you guys are comfortable with. I just got my Itaste mvp3.0. I have the Kanger Subtank Nano with a .5 ohm occ. The mvp recommends 25-30 watts for that. But the coil itself says 15-30 watts. Kind of confusing. Anyway I keep mine between 15-20 watts. Anything more heats the tank up too much, like I can feel the heat on my lip.
I just picked up a Kanger Genitank Mega also, haven't tried it yet but it came with 1.8 coils, so I'll probably start at about 6-7 watts and go from there.
I love this thing, so far very happy with my purchase, hopefully it holds up for a long time. I guess just want to see if I'm doing everything safely.
The 65 watt M65 I got is defective. So I'm returning it and replacing it with a new mod. But I'm stuck between 2 mods. The Smoktech X-Pro M80, or the Vape Connexx 150. Both look great but I'll give you a quick run down on the pros and cons of both.
Smoktech M80
Pros - 4400 mAh built in battery, 80 watts max power, .2-3.0 ohms, pass through vaping, decent sized and stylish.
Cons - only 80 watts, built in battery, 4400 mAh.
Vape Connex
Pros - like the bulkyness of it, huge firing button, 180 day warranty, interchangable 18650, magnetic back, .1-3.0 ohms.
Cons - no pass through, never heard of the brand.
So should I stick with a brand I know? Or risk it and get a really powerful mod? Any input is appreciated. Thanks y'all.