Evic Vt 60w

About time too. Tired of these ugly oversized boxed

Dani Extreme V2

5 to 40W with one Li-Ion battery
- Adjustable battery discharge level 2.5-3V
- Up to 12V output voltage
- Up to 15A output current
- Temperature controlled vaping mode with various wire-types
- Mechanical MOD mode (electronically overload protected)
- 10 Power boost modes
- 10 Heater protection modes
- Atomizer resistance range 0.05 to 5 Ohms, total range
- Atomizer resistance 0.2-3.5 Ohms (40W, guaranteed)
- Reverse batteryprotection
- Versatile menu structure
- Individual user preferences selection
- 2Year warranty on electronic

 

Greetings,

maybe I was bored. Maybe to much doom and gloom on all the bans of new gear and the shipping of it. I started to think - why not have some fun with some of the stuff I already have?



Cases in point - the two rigs in the picture above. I believe that all the hardware (mods and tanks) are over 5 years old. The setup on the left has a bit of a story about it.

Sitting on my desk is a few old tube mods that I wonder what it would be like to use again. I found a old (I think KFv3) tank laying around, built a very low mass 2ohm coil in it, filled it up and went and tried it out on my old 15W tube mods. Sadly not a one of them liked the KFv3 and would register the 2ohm coil. So what to do? I had a old Evic that surely could be put into power mode. While I was not to surprised that it all works (I've actually refilled the tank a few times and replaced the battery once) the vape is more restrictive than I tend to like and be it the build (or the 10W power mode) I don't really like the flavor of the unflavored juice with this. Another negative is that while it is top fill, there is no juice flow control so the atomizer get flooded each time the tank is refilled. While I could (and have) used it in a pinch, I can get 1-2 tank fills on a single 3000mah battery.

The setup on the right represents some historical firsts for me. Years ago when I first got into rebuilding a Lemo2 was one of three tanks I bought when I started. It was also my first top fill tank. Sitting under it is my first ever Dicodes mod (a #6). This mod is setup in TC mode with 380F temperature setting and 23W.

Be it the better tank or the use of TC mode, the setup on the right provides a good vape. The 26650 has enough mah to easily allow me to vape the tank dry (takes me most of the day) and since years ago I got Dicodes very over priced charger, I just drop the mod in the charger at the end of the day and its ready for more vaping in a few hours.

So, anyone else putting to use or having some fun with +5 year old vaping gear? How do you like it?


g.  

Temperature control testing results are available for the DiCoDes Dani 25 using the stock SS profile, he imgur.com/a/89GNaPJ

or

Temperature Control Testing Results: DiCoDes Dani25 tube mod (~$300 USD) : electronic_cigarette

TLDR: This is a $400 AUD mod that doesnt produce a premium temperature control experience in many states. The method of temperature control this mod uses produces a wavy temperature experience you can both hear and feel in most cases. Like PWM, it creates a band of temperature outcomes from pulsing more power than it needs to keep the coil temperature maintained. It mostly succeeds at providing dry hit protection, but unless you are using high resistance high or high mass builds, there are smoother and more accurate outcomes on a range of cheaper mod. The TCR value can only be set in 5C steps so that makes it impossible to dial in but fortunately the built in SS mode (TCR92) is reasonably accurate and consistent on average. Overall the default SS setting is slightly under the set temperature. Between the premium priced boards, both DNA and YiHi methods produce a better temperature control outcome than this DiCoDes board in terms of smoothness, accuracy and range around the set temperature (I think objectively?). If someone wants to lend me a different DiCoDes to test, I will pay for shipping and be very careful with it.  

Hi everybody, I have lost track of new vaping gear and need an advice.
Finally one of my mods died. The newest one, Joyetech eVic Primo. Bad from the beginning (because of its faulty protection) it just stopped working. Another mod should die soon. It is a clone of iStick 30, 4+ years old. It's my best mode, but its battery already is at about of half capacity (after about 1500 charges).
So, now I use iStick 30, iStick Pico 25 and iStick Pico. Tanks (from best to worst) Kayfun 5, Siren 2, Ammit, OBS Engine NANO.
I need a new mod and, possibly, a new tank.
Thanks for reading.  

So I was originaly going to buy an istick 50w with a kanger subtank buy I bought the Evic VT in racing yellow. It's on it's way in the mail. Was this a bad idea? Also should I just stick with the tank it comes with or should I buy a kanger subtank. My goal is big clouds and nice flavor!  

Hello, I've been using the Aerotank giant with an eVic Joyetech 1st gen battery since 5 months ago and the glass of my tank broke a few weeks ago so, I'm looking for a new tank upgrade, I've seen good reviews about the KangerTech Sub Ohm but I havn't had the time to see reviews about other thanks and this one looks pretty cool, what other tanks are out there to compete with this one? Should I get this one? I'm ordering in the next 3 hours or so, so, any advice is welcomed!

Thanks in advance vapers!  

I'm thinking about pre ordering the evic vt by joyetech has any one used it yet and if so is it worth it.  

So I'm a toodle puffer. My normal set-up is a Joyetech Evic Easy and a Kayfun lite with unflavored liquid. The Evic Easy has a regulated 3.3 volt mode and an unregulated mode. I run the Kayfun (original V1) at 1.5 ohms, so I'm vaping at a whopping 7 watts.

Just on a whim, since I was ordering some supplies and stuff, I decided to try one of those new-fangled subtank minis...hey, it was on sale. This is my result after 2 days.

First, the .5 ohm was out of the question, so I primed and put in the 1.2 ohm OCC coil. Well, this was just not a good fit for me. The problem is, I think, the wire guage. I bet the coil is made from 24-26 guage wire. My 3.3 volts took forever to heat that wire. I had to hold the button down for 3-5 seconds to get any sizzle at all, and just couldn't get much vapor.

So, the next step is to try the rba base. This is very kayfun-like, and I built it the same way. Inspecting it, I found a burr on one of the juice channels, but filed that off with a needle file. I built a 1.8 ohm 30ga 2mm coil that turned out to be 2.0 ohm...oh, well close enough. Wicked it with my typical cotton ball and laid the tails across the deck.

I looked at the mouthpiece. Are you kidding me, looks like a tailpipe. Swapped to a favorite drip tip, turned the airflow to the lowest setting, and started vaping.

I've gone thru 2 tanks, and it's working great. Maybe better than my kayfuns. I'm going to try rebuilding the OCC coils for backups, and will likely get a couple more rba bases. The beauty may be how easy it will be to swap out the coil.  

I have a battery that is capable of going up to 6.0 V but the chart that came with the battery did not have 1.6 Ohm listed on the chart, it skipped from 1.5 Ohm to 1.8 Ohm.
I just need to know what the max amount of volts that I can use with this coil without reducing it's life expectancy to much.

- Also is there any reason to prefer variable wattage mode over variable voltage? because I always use V/V mode never even tried V/W.  

Hi all
Couldn't find the topic on VW mods
so I thought I'd post my question here..
I have two IPV4's that have been great running kanthel builds in the power mode,
but I really don't see a difference running the NI200 Atlantis coils in joules mode using the Temperature Control feature of the IPV4..In fact I get a burnt taste in the Atlantis after vaping a tank of juice running the .12 ohm NI200 coil from Vapor Shark..
Now the mod hits great with the kanthel coils in the Starre and Herkakes sub tanks and is great with the .2 ohm kanthel build in the Dark horse at 65w (power mode) but so far TC has been a real disappointment for me

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