Melo Atomizer

So I dropped by brand new MVP. I had the Eleaf Melo tank installed when it hit the ground. Didn't see how it landed or anything. But when I picked it up and tried to vape the resistance reads "-.-". The device seemed to be fine, so I thought maybe the coil or tank fell out of wack and tried it on my iStick 50w. It worked fine!

So obviously it must be the MVP then?? I installed another Melo that I bought and it works fine on the MVP. But after disassembling the older Melo (that was originally on the MVP) and putting back together it still will not fire on the MVP, just the iStick. I tried playing with the center pin on the Melo but have had no luck.

So what the heck is going on?  

I am kinda a noob when it comes to prebuilt coils. I am looking for coils that feel very strong/sturdy, but I am not sure what material it is.

I had coils that said they were .25ohm and all it says is "KA1 WIRE + Ni80 wire" and they felt very sturdy/hard to pull the wraps apart etc....

I bought what I thought were a good replacement for those, but they feel flimsy and easy to pull apart the wraps. They are .36ohm, 316l stainless steel, 30gx4/36g.

So apparently the stainless steel wires are more flimsy...I cannot seem to find coils that have KA1 + Ni80 like the sturdy coils I once had. I
am trying to figure out which material/what I need to look for in order for the coils to be sturdy like the old coils.


Can someone help me out with this? Thanks in advance.  

Hey all,

So, I've been really happy with my new setup (iStick 50w and 30w, Nautilus and Mini Nautilus). Everything has been working smoothly, but I have a problem with the replacement coils I purchased (and cannot return).

Went to go change out the coil in one of my tanks this evening. Filled the tank up as usual, made sure the air shaft and drip tip were clean, screwed on my new coil, filled the tank, and let it sit and wick up for half an hour. Took some pulls without firing, dropped it to 8w (to "step up" and prime the new coil), and immediately got a nasty burnt hit that I can still taste an hour later. Unscrewed the tank to see what was wrong, and noticed the wicking material was bone dry.

For the longest time, I could not figure out what happened, why it wasn't wicking...until I looked closer. The e-liquid holes on the replacement coil I have are TINY! The coils that came with the tanks have holes that are at least twice, maybe three times the diameter. The holes are so small that my e-liquid will not even enter them to soak the wicking material. I checked the serial number scratch off on Aspire's site and both boxes of replacement coils I have came up as authentic.

I'm displeased. $22 down the drain, now I have to rush and find a dealer who has the "correct" coils. I cannot use these coils whatsoever, and the dealer I purchased from does not accepted returns on atomizers.



On the left is the coil that came with the tank (both of my tanks came with this exact same coil, and two replacements that look exactly like it, but I've used them up and am on the new ones). On the right, the coil I purchased in a replacement pack of 5. You can see they look nearly identical, except for the size of the wicking holes. Also, the piece at the bottom seems a bit more flimsy, as you can see in the picture, it's not exactly straight with the rest of the atomizer.

So, can anyone point me to a dealer that has the coils I need? I'm afraid of ordering from somewhere and getting the ones on the right, which are useless and do not soak up any e-liquid whatsoever.  

Wich is the best (clearomizer) option for istick 30w?I know that MELO was specially made for 30w one but I don`t know,maybe you know a better than this.I want with replaceable coils.I was thinking at Kanger SubTank plus v2 with 1,2ohm coil,Delta II with the same 1,2ohm coils,Aspire Nautilus mini BVC or the MELO.
Now I`m waiting opinions for those who know!  

I figured this would be the Second best place to put this question but the other forum doesn't produce any replies. So I posted it here. Simple answer if you know what to use to glue glass to metal and will be non toxic!

On to the question, I have a first generation Kanger Protank where the body, glass bit, is glued to the bottom metal piece that screws into the Skirted piece of an eGo battery adaptor. One friend was using the glass piece to screw the Protank onto and off of her mod and to refill the ejuice. Short story shorter she popped the glass piece of the first gen Protank.

Big question part, what type of adhesive should I use to "GLUE" the Glass to the bottom metal Piece. Something that is non toxic and will survive the repeated stresses of day to day use that a Protank would encounter?

Thank you for your understanding, Moderator's, the Cross Post.  

I have an Eleaf iStick 30 & use the Aspire Nautilus mini with it. I bought a Melo tank to try sub ohm vaping, but don't like it (Melo coil) at .5 ohm. I do, however, really like it when I slightly unscrew it & get a 1.2 ohm reading for it.

I'd like to try the new Atlantis V2 1.0 ohm for my Melo tank. Why does Aspire list the power requirements for the 1.0 ohm coil at 40-50 w? I'm assuming they mixed up the specs for the .5 ohm and 1.0 ohm. Is this correct?  

Hey guys looking for a tank that will last me long. As we all know CE4's aren't the best mine died pretty quickly. Looking for a tank that will last me long, and wouldn't need replacement coils very often. Also hoping these tanks are glass so they don't break with certain juice. I was thinking the evod glass 2 or the aspire k1. Any ideas? And will these tanks fit on my battery?

Zen Pen Electronic Cigarette Kit  

Why are they all made from soft brass? Even the silver colored ones are just plated/painted over brass and even being overly gentle and careful, they're designed to strip and wear out.

Where can I get one made from stainless, or at least steel? I'm talking about the threaded portion. The positive anode being brass is fine by me.

People are sticking aluminum foil and other things in there to take up the slack, but these are temporary fixes that won't be durable. Using wood or paper only inhibits the conductivity of its intended purpose.

I'm guessing the threads on my SubTank Plus portion (male threads) are actually stainless, which is a good thing, but the (female) threads in the KBOX are losing their silver color, leaving metal shavings on the tank's threads, and slowly turning brass in color.

I properly lubricate these threads, and I'm extremely gentle as I gingerly thread the tank on (NEVER cross-threading), but I can feel it getting looser as the days go by (only 6 days old), and can visually see the slow change in color inside, from silver to brass.

I'm tempted to solder some jumper-cables to my tank, and leave the box-mod in my pocket. I want to try to make my own female connector from some grade-8 nut, then epoxy a center-pin in there, then hardwire it to the KBOX, after ripping out its brass 510. Maybe use an NL-4 Neutrik™ connector instead. This area needs improvement!  

So i'm not familiar with every single atomizer on the market. They're all different in their design. One potential problem i do believe to be universal in all these devices though is an "Airlock".

Regardless of how much cotton wool has been crammed into the wells of an RTA, or whether you primed your drop in coil enough, an airlock will prevent the e liquid from getting to the wick everytime. Time and time again you either re-wick or swap out the drop in coil. Then you think "there is definitely something wrong with the atomizer".

How many times have you built a new coil, or simply re-fiiled on an existing wick, and then found all you get is dry hits and you can't figure out why ?. Maybe you eventually decide "this atomizer is no good".

The simple solution is to add more e liquid than you think you should when "priming" the coil/wick. It's not a process which takes just a minute or two. The whole idea is to let the e liquid soak right through the cotton wool, through the channels until it starts to seep out the other end of those channels, where ever that might be !. To go from a tank to a coil/wick the e liquid has to travel through the channels.

If cotton wool soaked in e liquid is at one end of the channels then that is what is causing the "airlock".

Simply put "it's "trapping" the air in the channels and causing an airlock".

You get rid of all the air in the channels by "bleeding" the system. This should be the most important part of "priming". Allowing the e liquid you've added as a primer to expel all the air from the system. Without doing this you are running the risk of successive dry hits and confusion.

So you add e liquid as a primer, let it soak into the cotton wool then add a few drops more. Then, wait a few minutes to see how far the e liquid has got. Wait for it to come out the other end because that what you should be looking for. Once you see it coming out the other end of the channels you know the system has been fully bled. And then you can reassemble your device and fill the tank.

 

A couple days ago I met a guy at a party, and everytime he would take a hit of his mod it would make this whirring sound. Turns out he just picked up the new Turbo RDA by Tobeco which was designed by their USA Team "Ohm Nation". I have to say it is very innovative. I have never seen anything like it so of course I asked him the name and where he purchased it from. I finally got my hands on one and its a great RDA with the proper build. The whole design of it is a B+ the reason for that is...the airflow control (which is the upper piece and where the fan is mounted) is made out of plastic which is a big downside because once you get your coils fired up, the plastic SLOWLY begins to met and in my case, melted in peices of the wick. Other than that, the post are wide so it can accommodate lower gauge wires. The posts are also milled into the deck to prevent the posts from spinning and they also give you a super wide bore glass drip tip. Its also constructed out of 304 stainless steel. Overall, i am pretty happy with it and one of the builds that i believe best suits this is 20g Nichrome 5 Wraps. Its super hot, the fan definitely gets put to work and you're getting a lot vapor production.

It is definitely stands out on design and is DIFFERENT to what we usually see out there which I do love about this RDA. It's great that companies are getting creative and trying new things with the products they are creating. I do hope they revisit this and make the next one with a stainless steel airflow control. Other than that, wow.