What high power device do you use? 80w or higher. What are your experiences w/ higher watt devices.Please omit phallic references .
Hi ECF,
I've been a member here on ECF for nearly 4 years now, and one thing that keeps me coming back is the positive atmosphere and sense of community. There are many helpful, knowledgeable, and kind people here that go above and beyond when it comes to helping out fellow vapers, and for this I am extremely grateful. Unfortunately, for some time now I've noticed an increasing trend of being judgmental and condescending towards other people's vaping style and preferences.
Whether vaping with an eGo battery at 7 watts or a .2 ohm build on a 150 watt box, we are all still vapers. We all made an extremely positive change from smoking cigarettes (well, most of us) to the fun and enjoyable world of vaping, but it seems some people are forgetting our common interest and accomplishment and instead focus on the differences, and use those differences to deride others.
Not everybody needs a high-powered device, plenty of people are perfectly happy with a more moderate vape and they aren't any less of a "real vaper" than those with high power or high-end setups. Alternatively, not everyone is satisfied vaping at lower power levels or with cheaper gear, and it does not make someone an immature showoff because they seek out higher performance and/or higher end equipment.
I have seen more examples than I can even begin to remember of thinly veiled insults aimed at people looking for bigger clouds or more power, just as I have seen plenty of useless suggestions when people pressure someone into a piece of equipment that they have made perfectly clear they have no interest in.
So I make a humble request of my fellow vapers here on ECF:
Please show respect towards the vaping style/preference of others.
Thanks for your time
I've always wondered whats better for efficiency. In a regulated mod I can't imagine it really makes a difference in vape performance, I'm currently keeping my builds at a lower resistance by winding parallel coils. My goto build comes to about 0.4ohms and I run it in the range of 28-38w, usually set at 32w, if I wound it in series it would be around 1.6ohm which would need about 7v to get to 30w and at my Aegis solos max voltage of 8v would provide 40w. The only issue with this is that it limits the wattage range you can run at, since I sometimes do crank this build upto 42w, although it does start to burn above 45w.
The one advantage of running at a high voltage and a lower current is that theoretically there should be less energy loss in the transmission of power to the coils (like in the pin, the posts and the wiring connecting the 510), although depending on the construction of the mod/tank it may not be significant enough to provide any benifit. I can imagine that it's not that simple either as the mod is having to boost the voltage more which may cause the voltage conversion efficiency to suffer. Although in my dual cell mod it may be benificial since the input voltage is around 6.4-8.4v, although I tend to use this for my higher wattage builds.
This may just be me because I'm obsessed about how much voltage is dropped across cables, I always use the high quality wiring and keep it as short as possible because it is actually quite surprising how much energy you can loose through a cheap cable. Even good quality wire at higher amps can drop a significant amount of power.
Ok so my amazing better half got me one for Christmas. And a couple extra batteries with a super fancy and complicated charger I have him use for me.
Now does anyone have any suggestions as to anything I can put on it to really see what it can do. I think all of mine would become a blow torch over 100w.
Heck I'll be happy with recommendations on people's favorite higher watt builds as I don't know if I'll ever take it even 50% as high as it can go.
Yes he's nuts for getting me a unbelievably high watt pricey mod. But he knows I like to experiment. And we'll I can't think of many builds it can't do. So it's kind of bad ... for that.
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Somehow, I inadvertently pushed the buttons just wrong today and it went from 7 watts (my usual power setting) to 50 watts (the highest setting). I didn't even mean to push any of those buttons.
I experienced instant burnout and a horrible taste in my mouth and the coil was instantly ruined.
Do people really vape at such high power? If so, how often do you have to replace the coil? And how many ohms are you putting that through? The coil I replaced it with is 1.77 ohms which is about the same as the one I burned out.
50 watts seems so excessive to me that I double-checked and yes, that's what it says it goes up to. Even at 7.5 watts the coils seem to burn out too fast which is why I vape at 7.
I feel like Nigel Tufnel designed this thing. "But it goes to 50. That's 43 higher than 7. So it's like 43 more. So when you're vaping at 7 watts and you want that extra push over the cliff..."
(I'm actually impressed that Nigel could do the math to figure that 50 was 43 higher than 7)
I went from a eGo twist that I usually ran at maybe 8-10W to a 20w box mod. My Nautilus mini and favorite flavor seem to go OK at the higher settings at near 20W. Others definitely less so! My iClear16 and some of the other flavors I use as alternates get really nasty at higher settings...burnt, hot, dry, etc. I sometimes look at my tank and wonder..."Why am I vaping burnt cardboard??" Yuk!
Do some tanks and flavor types (fruit, menthol, sweets, darks, lights, etc) handle the increased power better than others?? Is it the tank, the flavor, or both?? I want to know what to toss in the trash!!
Thanks!
--Jeff
the short story ......
Background and aims
Aldehydes are emitted by electronic cigarettes due to thermal decomposition of liquid components. Although elevated levels have been reported with new-generation high-power devices, it is unclear whether they are relevant to true exposure of users (vapers) because overheating produces an unpleasant taste, called a dry puff, which vapers learn to avoid. The aim was to evaluate aldehyde emissions at different power levels associated with normal and dry puff conditions.
Design
Two customizable atomizers were prepared so that one (A1) had a double wick, resulting in high liquid supply and lower chance of overheating at high power levels, while the other (A2) was a conventional setup (single wick). Experienced vapers took 4-s puffs at 6.5 watts (W), 7.5 W, 9 W and 10 W power levels with both atomizers and were asked to report whether dry puffs were generated. The atomizers were then attached to a smoking machine and aerosol was trapped.
Setting
Clinic office and analytical chemistry laboratory in Greece.
Participants
Seven experienced vapers.
Measurements
Aldehyde levels were measured in the aerosol.
Findings
All vapers identified dry puff conditions at 9 W and 10 W with A2. A1 did not lead to dry puffs at any power level. Minimal amounts of aldehydes per 10 puffs were found at all power levels with A1 (up to 11.3 µg for formaldehyde, 4.5 µg for acetaldehyde and 1.0 µg for acrolein) and at 6.5 W and 7.5 W with A2 (up to 3.7 µg for formaldehyde, 0.8 µg for acetaldehyde and 1.3 µg for acrolein). The levels were increased by 30 to 250 times in dry puff conditions (up to 344.6 µg for formaldehyde, 206.3 µg for acetaldehyde and 210.4 µg for acrolein, P < 0.001), while acetone was detected only in dry puff conditions (up to 22.5 µg).
Conclusions
Electronic cigarettes produce high levels of aldehyde only in dry puff conditions, in which the liquid overheats, causing a strong unpleasant taste that e-cigarette users detect and avoid. Under normal vaping conditions aldehyde emissions are minimal, even in new-generation high-power e-cigarettes.
Conclusion
Aldehyde emissions in EC aerosol are associated directly with dry puff conditions. In normal vaping conditions, the levels of aldehydes emissions are minimal and by far lower than the levels in tobacco cigarette smoke, despite the use of high power levels. In dry puff conditions, aldehyde emissions are significantly elevated to very high levels, but vapers are not expected to be exposed to such levels during normal EC use, even when they use new-generation high-power devices.
the long story a good read
E-cigarettes generate high levels of aldehydes only in ‘dry puff’ conditions - Farsalinos - 2015 - Addiction - Wiley Online Library
My MVP 20 watt recently started to get a little wonky on me. I use 1.5 ohm coils in an aerotank but for some reason the MVP is readin it as 4.9 and sometimes even higher. Of course its not hitting right either. I know its not the coils because if i put that same tank on my MVP 2.0 it reads correctly. The MVP 20w doesn't do this all the time but today its been doing it all day. It won;t go below 5 ohms and sometimes its even higher. Is this thing shot?
E-cigarette cancer warning as new study finds mint and menthol flavour risk
The study of menthol and peppermint vapes revealed high concentrations of a carcinogenic additive called pulegone that US watchdogs recently banned in food.
The pulegone additive, a constituent of oil extracts from mint plants, is believed to cause liver cancer if absorbed in high enough quantities.
Mint, menthol e-cigarette liquids high in cancer-causing compound: study - Reuters
The findings, published in the journal JAMA Internal Medicine
Vape Pods Taste Minty Thanks to Extremely High Levels of a Chemical Banned in Food
But despite all the evidence that pulegone is carcinogenic and causes liver toxicity, researchers found the chemical is present in mint and menthol-flavored e-cig liquid at levels far above a safe threshold.
This study is the latest in a growing pile of proof to how little-regulated e-cigs and vapes are. To illustrate that, researchers compared pulegone levels in mint and menthol e-cig liquid to levels in menthol cigarettes. At all levels of daily consumption, pulegone exposure from vape pods are significantly higher than exposure from cigarettes, with rates ranging from 44 to 1,608 times higher.
So much for Juul's best seller - menthol.
So I need to make sure right off the bat that no one misunderstands this post as somehow an attack on any vaper of any kind. I'm posting this because I have become genuinely curious and feel I may be missing out on my vaping experience. I've had an APV of some kind or another for the last 2 years or so, nothing ever real fancy or expensive (I just got an istick 50W and love it) but APVs none the less. I have found that I only really vape at very low Watts/Volts compared to many on this (as we speak I'm vaping The Virus in an old original model protank with a 2.2ohm coil in it at 3.8V--6.5W). Now it's not because I don't own a device that can reach the Watt levels I want, any of them can; in fact, I purchase higher resistance coils so I have a bigger range to vape at. My first VV battery was an ego style twist, and I have always kept with the same mentality (again, I'm not suggesting this is the right way, or better than others at all)-- I start at a low voltage, hit it, and continue to raise it .1V at a time until I get a burnt hit. I dial it one down, and there I am. Now I always use the Variable Voltage setting, and where I vape usually works out to be in the 5.5-7.5W range. Now, I have noticed that this is astoundingly low for the devices I use. My question is: when vaping at such high Watt levels, how can you taste the juice at all? I mean, at home (obviously not out in public) I would love to be getting even more satisfying vapor from these devices, which is clearly possible. So what am I doing wrong? What am I missing? Why is it that in the 6-7W range even my hits taste so burnt and dry I would never dream of continuing? All of your information/advice is greatly appreciated. Vape On.
I have just purchased a Kanger K Simar 20 and I loves it! Only problem is that the voltage is far too high for my Kanger Protank 2. It is giving me plenty of vapour but no taste apart from the burning.
This is the 1st mod I've bought and have been using the vapeonly V Power which is perfect with the protank. I love the feel and look of the K Simar 20 and want to hang on to it. My question is do I now have to start looking at a higher end tank for the mod to counter it burning my atty and what should I get.
Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.