Hana Modz Dna 30 Reading Shorted

Hello, just wondering if anyone owns or knows anyone who has a Hana Modz Dna30 with S.i? I wanted to buy one but wanna know if anyone knows how bad are are they? Thanks to all responses.  

For all you brainiacs and problem solvers out there. I've just recieved my Hcigar DNA 50 Hana Modz Clone from our friends at Fasttech. Overall it seems like a niece piece for the price. I've only really one issues with it which is as follows. The voltage read out is fairly accurate up to 40w but can't seem to go higher than 6.4v all the way up to 50w. 50w should read at 7.07v given the below build.

I'm currently using purple efest 3100mah batts with a 1ohm dual coil on a plume veil.

Is it that the display is faulty, (doubt this), I need higher drain batts (probably not as not pushing the amp limit here), or simply just that it's a clone and the chip isn't all the way up to the job?

I'm leaning towards the last one but can't complain, as an (essentially) 40w mod for the price is pretty flippin good!

Any ideas or suggestions would be great.

Cheers folks!  

A friend of a friend has for sale his Hana Modz V3 (DNA 30 I believe) and a derringer RDA and he is asking $85. The batteries are dead in the Hana so assume I'll have to come out of pocket another $15 for that, is that a fair price?  

I have bought four RDAs from VaporDNA, all Project Subohm. First was the CLT V3 Infinite.

It read at a 0.09ohms on my reader unbuilt. So I emailed them, and they sent a replacement. In the mean time, I managed to fix the first one. The second one also read at a 0.09ohms on my reader, but I managed to fix that one, too. (BTW, by "fixed", I mean "got to read at a 1 on my ohm reader unbuilt). Bolstered by my experience being easily able to fix the CLT, I ordered a Swirlfish. Same issue, but this time, I couldn't fix it.

Got a replacement, same issue, only, again, couldn't fix it.

Figured "third times the charm", though, and got a Mutation V3. It read at a 1 on my ohm reader. Made me so frickin' happy, I got a third Swirlfish... which failed again and I couldn't fix it.

However, the new Mutation V4 came out, and since the V3 came perfect I went ahead and bought it...

Well, it's reading at a 0.08ohms unbuilt, and I can't fix it. I don't even want to email them for a replacement, because I'm fully expecting it to be the same, and I'm really sick of this same thing over and over again. VaporDNA's customer service is wonderful and the response time is almost lightning fast, but a) this is product after product, b) you can't tell me they aren't getting sick of hearing from me, and c) if I'm the only one they keep hearing about this from, there's no way it isn't starting to look suspicious.

But there is simply no way I'm the only one experiencing this. It's not my ohm reader, which has fresh batteries and reads all un-shorted, built RDAs accurately. And yet I still got a Smok Omnitester which is on its way, just in case.

So what in the hell is going on, here? I may get a regular, non-Project Subohm Mutation V4 from somewhere else and just get my money back on this one or something, but I'm really at the end of my patience with this. It's ridiculous.

If you get Project Subohm RDAs, please check them on your ohm readers. Somebody... please somebody... say I'm not alone in experiencing this.

Please.  

Someone is selling me this hana mod and was wondering if anyone knew if it was legit.  

Hi guys,

Just been reading a few things (insulators burning through & shorting, the recent mod explosion, etc) and just wondering if I am in over me head with what I'm doing or if I'm in the 'safe' category.

I don't have any mods, and the sub-est of sub ohming I do is the 0.5ohm Subtank coils. I have the Subtank Nano & Mini.

The two batteries I use are the Ego One and the Aspire CF Sub Ohm. I'm getting into rebuilding the stock OCC Coils and my coils clock in between 0.6 & 0.8 ohm.

So a few questions...

- with the two batteries I have, what could go wrong? I've read about the safety features of the Ego One & the CFSubOhm but my knowledge of electronics is really basic. The have short protection, over charge protect, etc? The CFSubOhm has 9 second cut off on the fire button, not sure about the Ego One.

- What would happen if the insulators on the OCC coil burned through & shorted?

- the Ego One does heat up when charging, is this an issue or is it considered normal?

I really just want to be as safe as possible, and I'm not sure if I've got the time & patience to get educated.

What do you guys reckon?

Thanks a lot for any help.  

Hi all,

I have a quick question - I have been getting some inaccurate readings on my coils and I'm trying to figure out which is the closest to the real reading. I have an ohm reader I purchased at Mad Vapes that reads my coil at 1.93. I bought a new ohm meter from USA Ohm Meter (?) that reads it at 2.05. The Cloupor Mini reads it at 1.81 and the HCigar Heart beat reads at 1.83. Provari reads at 1.9. It is 8 wraps of 30 gauge Kanthal. Do any of these numbers even sound accurate?  

Ok so i recently made my little Hana clone with a genuine DNA 40 and so decided to buy myself a Squape R clone to use on it. as a novice to the world of RBA/RTA/RDA's this was my first foray and i thought I'd give my opinions/review/thoughts

1st making the clone - I'm not a novice with soldering and so i found the board easy to work with as long as i had the guide in front of me to work it all out. The Cigabuy Hana Enclosure was good as well with reasonable switches DNAsled etc.


BUT.... the 510 connector is crap! i had to fit it in with a hammer, its centre pin (non adjustable) catches and shorts on my aerotank when screwed on fully and to even get that far i had to modify it by removing the white plastic insulating ring and replace it with 2 sizes of heat shrink on top of each other.


other than that i put the up and down buttons in the wrong way round - but i'm leaving that element of stupidity as it makes it mine.


the Squape R clone or Traingle windows atomizer as it is from fast tech,

.... Fasttech takes ages BLAH BLAH BLAH .....

ok so it seems well made, no leaks from the windows no shorts on the deck, good click on the airflow,

but, neither the w or c decks fit the thing, at all, and i'm not hammering it in!!

so thats the bits about the equipment


now onto vaping,

1) wrapping coils is a PITA to start with! it looks easy, everyone makes it seem easy, but its fricken not every coil i wrapped was more like a spring than a coil!

2) when i started i had no idea how much is a reasonable wick, either using too much and it looking like a rabbit ran into a mousehole or when juiced in, looking like a bedraggled pathetic thing on the deck dead.

3) It was easier to make a coil with Nickel than Kanthal

4) once i had a coil built that worked, the squape leaked unti i realised i had to tuck the cotton into the channels on the deck.

5) vaping is very different on an RTA to a kanger tank, you have to pre click your button to let some vape build or the cloud is dry and hurts my throat, with a one second pre-hit i get what everyone is taking about - warm, moist cloud full of flavour!

6) temperature control is a PITA - yet more variables to play with to get it right, but once it is right it works, yup it works for me

So to round up i went from an MVP 20W on an aerotank with 1.8 ohm coild to a DNA 40 with Nickel coils vaping at approx 0.18 Ohms, i've still not found my perfect vape but i'm getting there, now to learn how to wrap coils, then move on to each new idea


Its a steep learning curve but i think worth the niggles, sore dry throat and PITA's of learning everything again.  

Alright, it's been a while since I've been on ECF, so I figured since I've got a reason to post - I will. My 150w box mod shorted out my batteries, and the firing button and + button broke so now they're loose and disconnected. I figured since the warranty is still valid I'd exchange it or get my money back. But note I will NOT order from fasttech or anything that'll have me waiting a month for my purchase to get here. My budget is $70/usd, so I know my options are a bit slim. But here's my average vape set up: usually under 50 watts, but I'd prefer at least 60 watts+ on my device (I'd be willing to go with a 30 watt, but it'd have to be amazing for me to consider it). Coils on my RDA were usually under 1.0ohm (.2ohms-.8ohms) I HATE built in batteries so something I could use my 18650's in would be ideal (preferably dual 18650 but I'm willing to compromise), mechanical box mods sketch me out so I'd rather not get one of those. I don't care about the brand, as long as it's reliable, fits my budget and most of my preferences. Now that you have a base, lay it on me. What do you think would be a good new mod for me? I'm willing to compromise, but not by much. Thanks guys, I appreciate any suggestions.  

If you had $450 to spend on vaping equipment, what would you buy?

Currently have an authentic Hana Modz V3 - Plume Veil - Little Boy - Tugboat V1- Kayfun Lite - Boss 26650



Vaping⚓Sailor