Sanding Down Post Screws

I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?

I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws

Thanks for any help  

Hi all, just got home from work and my new Orchid V4 was here waiting on me.
Kinda excited ok, thing is I started building coils for it using 28g wire.
Here the problem, I cant seem to loosen up the four screws on the post.
Are these normal threads or reverse threads?
Cant install new coils till I can loosen up those freaking screws lol.

Thanks, normally I never have such problems.

Jim  

I recently bought the Forge v2 by MCV Philippines and really love it. It's the copper version and looks great on my Kingpin. I also bought the MCV Philippines Elite drip tip to go on it. It's actually 2 tips in one(a copper and brass that can be stacked). Anyway, it won't fit on my Forge 2 because the post screws are too tall. The tip is a wide bore, and the 510 adapter that came with the RDA is shorter and doesn't make contact with the screws.

When I take the PH screws out, the Elite drip tip fits fine. I figured I would just add some of my extra Allen Hex grub screws(which I put on all my RDAs if possible), but the screws in the MCV Philippines RDAs are one size smaller than most RDA post screws. I believe they are size 3 (#46 / 3-56). I'm guessing they are Fine coarse.

Does anyone know a site that sells screws like this? I've tried searching Google, but didn't really find anything relevant.


Thanks  

hey guys. i have an ipv3. a couple days ago i asked my friend to screw the back plate on while i was busy doing something else. he somehow managed to tighten the screws so much that the areas of there back plate around the screws got pushed in and now there are small gaps between the back plate and the rest of the device. i tried countless times to straighten the areas out but nothing is working. does anyone know where/how or if its even possible to purchase just a new back plate?  

I ordered two of these batteries from FastTech. The cheap price and high capacity (without having a mod or some awkward huge battery) attracted me to them. Some two weeks later they show up...

I have two Puff King chargers that came with starter kits we bought at a B&M store. We've been using them with Tripl3 eGo batteries, one Puff King battery (and another Puff King battery, which was taken back and exchanged for another eGo-T battery, which broke), and so far no problems screwing any batteries in. These two from FT show up however and neither will screw into one Puff King charger, but they both did into the other (same charger, down to the model number and everything). Now, one battery from FT still screws in, but the other doesn't.

I took the non screwing in battery to a local B&M store and the guy there was able to screw it into one of their chargers. He handed it to me, and I unscrewed it, screwed it back in, unscrewed it again, and then neither of us could screw it in again. Now I have one battery from FT that will screw into one of my chargers, but not the other. The other battery will charge, but it has to just like sit in the charger and hope the connection stays okay for it to charge. I still have no problems screwing any of my other batteries into either charger, just these ones from FT. Also, it's worth mentioning that the FT batteries never seemed to screw in right... it always felt weird and finicky getting it to go in.

What's up with these batteries? They claim to be eGo/510 threaded, just like my other batteries. They look just like my other batteries too, except they won't screw in right...  

Hi All, Can anyone help me with finding the size of the deck screws for mounting the coil? I want to replace them with grub screws but have no idea what size to purchase. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks  

All of the sudden I wake up today and notice my 510 threading on my sigelei 50w box mod is jacked up. I cleaned the threads on my subtank mini and on my sigelei mod. I then tried screwing it onto my mod and now no matter what I try , there's a gap between the top of the mod and the bottom of the subtank (it's not screwing down all the way and has about a 3mm gap, hence now it won't fire...

I screwed my subtank onto my ileaf 30w and screws in flawlessly, so it's the sigelei threads ...

but I did pay a lot for my sigelei and prefer its hits , I dunno, I usually Vape about 16W on my sigelei And not sure how that translates over to what wattage I should run the eleaf at ?

Also, I just noticed that my spare RDAs will still screw onto my sigelei well..I'm so confused what's up !!!!  

All the videos on the KBOX complained about the irritating threads (like fingernails on a chalkboard) for the battery compartment, so I lubed mine when I got it with the lube I use for my flashlight's threads - SuperLube, and it's been great! Very smooth, feels very good to unscrew/screw.

Just wondering if others do this, and if it's bad to do for some reason. If it's not bad (like flashlights), then I highly recommend doing it! Make a HUGE difference in usability and enjoyment!  

Good tip for you guys without magnetic back plates on box mods. Throw those crappy screws away!
Most plates are beveled to fit snug to the main body. Instead of having to unscrew those tiny little screws find yourself a rubber wrist bracelet and wrap it around your mod. So simple but very effective. They practically give those things away so it shouldn't be too hard to find one. Or you could buy one.
Try it out! I promise you will love it  

Hi,

Threads are going to stick, it's a fact of life. Here's a fix that works.

You'll need 1) thin rubberized gloves 2) two pairs of pliers (with curved jaws, not straight) and 3) 220 grit sandpaper for metal

The steps are;
1) buy a pair of small-sized mechanic or garden gloves. The ones with rubber over fabric
2) cut off one inch of the finger tips (off the gloves, not your fingers)
3) slide the tips over the jaws of your pliers
4) put the pliers on either side and twist; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey (unless you have backward threads, usually not)

A couple things I found that improve it even more;
1) used sandpaper to smooth the sharp ridges on the pliers; wrap the sandpaper around a pencil till it fits the curvature of the ridges, I put the pencil in a drill and made quick work of it. They won't cut through the gloves so easily.
2) gently sand the tops of the threads on your tank, rough areas here sometimes cause the sticking. Don't sand much, just till they feel smooth.

it works, I Gar-on-tee it.