Coil Color

Hi guys,

Is it really normal for an atomizer to get hot especially when using dual coils?
I just created a dual coil a couple of minutes ago using 24 gauge kanthal wire, 10 wraps each on a 2.4mm precision screw driver. My meter shows that the resistance is at 0.4 ohms, being curious and all since this is the first time that I made a dual coil, i decided to test it out.
Got some good flavor and vapor, though the vapor is warmer than I would want it to be ( I prefer cold vapor)

After taking a couple of 5 secs drag, I notice that my atomizer became hot, not warm, but hot. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I am doing something wrong or have I done something wrong when creating my coils?
Please help.

Here are some pictures of my device and atomizer. ( Philbox wood mod running on 2 pcs of AWT 18650 2600mah battery, my atty is Haze by vapehead origins)


 

Hello vapers! first! I'm a noob at this stuff because I just buy my tank and use it with the coils it comes with and second, my english isnt that good but I can understand it perfectly fine.

Anyway, Ive been searching everywhere but I couldnt find a solid answer to my question.
Im using an Aerotank Giant right now with a 1.8 ohm coil, if I put a 1.2 ohm I would have to use less voltage because I get a burnt taste and the coil burns pretty quick, Im about to order a Sub ohm tank soon and I'll use the stock coils, the one im getting is the Kangertech SubOhm tank.
Why do subohm coils use more voltage when normal coils use less?

I mean, Ive seen people do things like 0.2 ohm coil @ 100W + If I did anything over 3.5V on my 1.2 ohm coil itd burn instantly... SubOhm takes more voltage the lower you go and normal dual coils take less voltage the lower you go!

1.9 Ohm Dual coil = 3.7-3.8V for me
0.5 ohm OOC subtank sub ohm coil = 12-30W?!

Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply to this post and your patience!

Cheers!

Edit: by the way, Im planning to use my subtank with a 50/50 PG/VG 16mg nicotine, Is that ok?  

I bought a Kanger Subtank and Atlantis V2, but sold them because they just weren't wicking my 100% VG liquid (Velvet Cloud & Gypsy eJuice) well at all. I tried using the atlantis with the .3 ohm coil installed at 70-80W, which was the stated operating range, and found it to be EXTREMELY hot. So hot that the tank quickly heated up to the point of almost burning my lips. The Kanger just burned the wick up at 20W+ with the .5 ohm coil, despite letting it sit filled for a few minutes and priming.

I am very interested in picking up a Royal Hunter, although I've no idea what pre-made coils (i dont want to make my own coils, just dont have the knowledge or time to learn how) and battery to get. VaporDNA sells UD pre-made coils in various resistances, but figuring out what resistance to use, and thus what wattage battery to get is where I am stuck. Not sure if it'd be better to run at lower ohms / higher wattages, or higher ohms / lower wattages. I'm not sure if it's possible to get massive clouds, but a cooler vape at the same time, but that's my aim.  

I can't find the post, but someone recently posted a helpful YouTube video on how to change cotton in a Kanger Subtank coil. I had no idea it was so easy, and I'm going to try it on my old coils. I've saved the video for future reference. My question is: how do you know when you need to change the cotton vs. when you need to change the entire coil? I don't think I'm up to doing my own coils yet. Is changing cotton just a way to prolong their life a little longer, and do you get to a point when you have to redo the whole shebang? Also, does any cotton from a vape store work, or do you need a specific kind depending on what kind of coil you have?  

I recently upgraded to the Istick 30 and Subtank nano, and kinda want to try out a dripper, but do not want to build coils, check ohms etc. Are there any drippers available that take pre made coils? I guess I can wick if needed, but I'm not ready to jump into coil building yet. And if anyone could explain the benefits of dripping over a tank system, that would be great also I know changing flavors without dumping a tank, but any flavor or vapor advantages?  

I never used anything but Kanthal and Nichrome wire to build my coils.

All things being 100% equal (wire gauge, coil type, coil diameter, ohms, etc) do SS coils require more power to run to get the same vapor as the exact same coil/resistance made from Kanthal or Nichrome wire?  

Hi. I have just purchased the heavy hitter mech mod.
The coils I bought are wotofo .28 dual core fused claptons.
It is a asgard mini RDA, it will be a dual coil build , so resistance should be .14
Will a Samsung 40t battery be ok with this build.
In regards to saftey and amp draw.
Thanks  

Hello, I still use regular non VV eGo batteries 3.8-4.2v. I want to get some dual coil MT3/eVod coil heads and was wondering what ohm would be best for not a harsh throat hit, want more smooth and the most vapor possible with this setup. I use 50/50pg/vg. I think I have the options of 1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.4 not sure on that yet. I usually vape flavors like mango, coco cream, kiwi, watermelon, etc.

Would dual coils be too much for that regular setup, thanks.  

Hey. I have a very annoying dry hit problem with my Innokin Zenith tank. I can't figure out what makes it happen. It happened on an used coil, so then i changed coils, but it happened again on the new coil.

I have 30% PG 70% VG liquid, didn't chain vape too much, had it on 14 watts, the tank was full, i had primed the coil...

Help is very appreciated!  

I've yet to buy a VW mod but i will be soon. However the outcome of this thread will dictate which one i go for.
Ive been looking at a few:

MVP 3 Pro (60w mod)
Itaste 50w mod
Coolfire 4 40w mod
Kanger Subbox Mini

For arguments sake lets say you have a 0.5ohm stock coil in an Isub G tank on the Istick 50w. You also have a 2ohm stock coil for it.
The mod is capable of supplying 50w to both the 0.5 ohm coil and the 2ohm coil. 50w is 50w right? So what, if any, is the benefit of putting a sub ohm coil in the VW mod?
The manufacturers market them as sub ohm mods, but why go sub ohm if the device is capable of the same wattage on a 1+ohm coil, the experience would be the same?

Which leads me to a similar question. Would any VW mod from say 30w capable to 60w capable basically give the exact same experience for the majority of users assuming the same tank is fitted?

I'm quite new to this but i hope my question is understandable
Thanks