Problem: Yep Rda Negative Post Milled Badly

Has anyone tried to sand down their screws that screw into their RDA posts?
If I sand mine down, do you think i will be able to still screw it in or will the threads be messed up  

Hi all, just got home from work and my new Orchid V4 was here waiting on me.
Kinda excited ok, thing is I started building coils for it using 28g wire.
Here the problem, I cant seem to loosen up the four screws on the post.
Are these normal threads or reverse threads?
Cant install new coils till I can loosen up those freaking screws lol.

Thanks, normally I never have such problems.

Jim  

I recently bought the Forge v2 by MCV Philippines and really love it. It's the copper version and looks great on my Kingpin. I also bought the MCV Philippines Elite drip tip to go on it. It's actually 2 tips in one(a copper and brass that can be stacked). Anyway, it won't fit on my Forge 2 because the post screws are too tall. The tip is a wide bore, and the 510 adapter that came with the RDA is shorter and doesn't make contact with the screws.

When I take the PH screws out, the Elite drip tip fits fine. I figured I would just add some of my extra Allen Hex grub screws(which I put on all my RDAs if possible), but the screws in the MCV Philippines RDAs are one size smaller than most RDA post screws. I believe they are size 3 (#46 / 3-56). I'm guessing they are Fine coarse.

Does anyone know a site that sells screws like this? I've tried searching Google, but didn't really find anything relevant.


Thanks  

I ordered two of these batteries from FastTech. The cheap price and high capacity (without having a mod or some awkward huge battery) attracted me to them. Some two weeks later they show up...

I have two Puff King chargers that came with starter kits we bought at a B&M store. We've been using them with Tripl3 eGo batteries, one Puff King battery (and another Puff King battery, which was taken back and exchanged for another eGo-T battery, which broke), and so far no problems screwing any batteries in. These two from FT show up however and neither will screw into one Puff King charger, but they both did into the other (same charger, down to the model number and everything). Now, one battery from FT still screws in, but the other doesn't.

I took the non screwing in battery to a local B&M store and the guy there was able to screw it into one of their chargers. He handed it to me, and I unscrewed it, screwed it back in, unscrewed it again, and then neither of us could screw it in again. Now I have one battery from FT that will screw into one of my chargers, but not the other. The other battery will charge, but it has to just like sit in the charger and hope the connection stays okay for it to charge. I still have no problems screwing any of my other batteries into either charger, just these ones from FT. Also, it's worth mentioning that the FT batteries never seemed to screw in right... it always felt weird and finicky getting it to go in.

What's up with these batteries? They claim to be eGo/510 threaded, just like my other batteries. They look just like my other batteries too, except they won't screw in right...  

hey guys. i have an ipv3. a couple days ago i asked my friend to screw the back plate on while i was busy doing something else. he somehow managed to tighten the screws so much that the areas of there back plate around the screws got pushed in and now there are small gaps between the back plate and the rest of the device. i tried countless times to straighten the areas out but nothing is working. does anyone know where/how or if its even possible to purchase just a new back plate?  

So I purchased a piece of garbage 25mm Kennedy one from Fastech. I spent practically nothing on it so I'm not too upset.

My question is: the negitive post is already spinning. I can just use a pair of pliers to hold the pin in place while I screw down the post. But is a spinning negitive post safe to use?  

Hi All, Can anyone help me with finding the size of the deck screws for mounting the coil? I want to replace them with grub screws but have no idea what size to purchase. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks  

Hello so as of now I have a 100 foot roll of .26 gauge kanthol that ive been using litterally ever since i started getting into rebuildables. I have been looking for some thicker wire, and i was thinking .22 gauge but idk just wanted to hear what gauge you guys vape with!  

I figured this would be the Second best place to put this question but the other forum doesn't produce any replies. So I posted it here. Simple answer if you know what to use to glue glass to metal and will be non toxic!

On to the question, I have a first generation Kanger Protank where the body, glass bit, is glued to the bottom metal piece that screws into the Skirted piece of an eGo battery adaptor. One friend was using the glass piece to screw the Protank onto and off of her mod and to refill the ejuice. Short story shorter she popped the glass piece of the first gen Protank.

Big question part, what type of adhesive should I use to "GLUE" the Glass to the bottom metal Piece. Something that is non toxic and will survive the repeated stresses of day to day use that a Protank would encounter?

Thank you for your understanding, Moderator's, the Cross Post.  

Good tip for you guys without magnetic back plates on box mods. Throw those crappy screws away!
Most plates are beveled to fit snug to the main body. Instead of having to unscrew those tiny little screws find yourself a rubber wrist bracelet and wrap it around your mod. So simple but very effective. They practically give those things away so it shouldn't be too hard to find one. Or you could buy one.
Try it out! I promise you will love it