So I picked up a 'spade bit' set for my drill and a block of wood at a home depot, went to town and made a little vape station:
In case anyone is interested here's what I used:
Spade bit set
1.5 inch sq. block of wood (pine?) (they cut a yard into three pieces)
random piece of what I'm calling 'molding' to beautify the thing a touch
A drill
Just line up the spade bits with your devices to see which bits to use. Roughly measure how deep you will need to go into the wood so as not to go through the other side. Spade bits have a long pointy tip that protrudes beyond the cylinder they create, so using a different bit set would probably be ideal, this is a cheap/easy way to do it. With this setup you will have little indents in the center of each hole, but it doesn't bother me.
I still need to sand it, glue on the 'molding', and stain it. Should look nice after. Also, for the eleaf istick (50W) on the right, I had to drill 3 times with the same bit. The hole isn't perfect but some sanding should help. Mark your wood with pencil before drilling (measure twice cut once!), and/or do what I did and get 3 pieces in case you make a mistake (or want to expand later!).
Of course you could buy something like this, but this way you can have it be custom to whatever devices you happen to own. Cheap, efficient, space saving, easy to do (seriously, took me like 5 min to measure and 15 min to drill the holes).
Here's the spade bit set:
It rolls up nicely.
Here's the 'molding' with one of the un-drilled blocks:
I'll also note I have no experience doing anything like this, just kinda had a thought at the hardware store = )
Update
I sanded, stained, and poly-ed. It's not perfect but I'm happy:
He she is all loaded up:
So....my lemo was my #1 RTA, until I got the subtank mini and delta 2 (although I haven't tried the delta 2 yet, but have heard very good things about it). I have been sad, because I have put my lemo to the side, because my newer RTAs have more airflow. I would vape my lemo most of the time between 25-30 watts, and could get it up to about 38 watts without a dry/burnt hit. Anything over 40 would give me a dry/burnt hit, which is still impressive. (with my old wicking method)
Long story short, I decided to drill out my airholes on my lemo. I found another guy that had already done this, so I followed his bit sizes. He claims that he now vapes his lemo around 70-80 watts without dry/burnt hits. I had my wisdom teeth out about 3 days ago, so I can not vape as I usually do (in fear of getting a dry socket) so I have had to barely hit my tanks to vape. I hit the lemo, after modding it, last night, at 40 watts with a wussy vape and no dry/burnt hit at all. I can't wait to actually vape like I usually do and see how high in wattage I can go. By the way, I am trying something new and using Drip Trippers pancake wicking method on this as well, and a 0.78 build.
So here are the pics, with the sizes, if anyone wants to do this. It took me about 15 minutes:
4 External air holes (pic 1) - 3/32 drill bit
Vertical stem shaft air hole (pic 2) - 1/8 drill bit
Vertical stem 4 air holes (pic 3) - 3/32 drill bit
Pancake wicking method.
I am just wondering what cordless drill everyone uses to build their advanced coils?
I am looking online at pictures, and it looks like a lot of the drill chucks don't fully 'spin' down to where they touch each other, which potentially means it wouldn't hold thin wire in the center of the chuck.
Aside from the chuck being able to hold thin wire in the center, I am wondering what drill is good in terms of trigger, speed control adjustments, and being able to easily control the speed of the drill!
Pics and model/manufacturer appreciated!
So this has just been one of those days that I want to go back to bed and get a re-do on. the bright part of the day was I got my brand new FUhattan clone and a new Omega dripper for it. loaded it up with a purple Efest and was really enjoying it. The wife has been harping on me for a few weeks to move the woodpile that was at the end of the driveway to the back of the shed where we store wood for the winter. No problem. I slipped my new mod in my back pocket and went out to work. about 2 hours later I was done with the small pieces and had a number of large pieces I needed to split. grabbed my 20lb Splitting maul and a wedge and took after the splitting. And thats when the Universe said "NOPE!"
As I was swinging the maul for all I was worth my foot slipped o a piece of wood underfoot. Swing went off and the maul glanced off the edge of the wedge. I managed to yank my leg outta the way but saw my new FUhattan on the ground... A split second before my Maul made contact.... Huge dent and hole in the side of it right near the middle. I heard a hissing and crackling and knew the battery was doing bad things. Kicked the mod into the center of the gravel driveway and watched as it lit on fire. Not as spectacular as I would have liked to see, but the mod and dripper are totally trashed.
And to top it off my neighbor was watching and said "Yea, those things are never safe. Only idiots use them." I asked him to get me any of his "Safe" battery powered devices and to let me smash it with batteries in it and we would see just how safe HIS things were. His wife threw a can of soda at him and told him to shut his mouth and get inside then asked me if I was ok. I told her just my pride was hurt...
So yea, this is just one of the things from today... Can I please have a do-over?
Just got my wraps for my three favorite mods in vapemail from Vapor Skins, and I was very impressed with the exact fit, quality, fit and finish of all three. I got a Carbon Fiber for my IPV Mini 70W, an Exotic Wood for the Sigelei 150, and a Textured Wood for the VS rDNA 40. I've attached a pic (pease ignore the messy Tugboat). We'll see how they hold up, but for now I'm a happy customer!
I hope I am posting this in the correct place.
Up til this year I have run mainly utilitarian stuff and it’s served me well, I have to say. I have however been looking at some of the rather beautiful stabwood mods folk on here have, and am considering one, especially now I have found a custom maker up by Loch Fyne near to my other house in the West of Scotland.
I have a few questions which I hope members can help with.
Do you use them when you are out and about as daily drivers, or do they need special care so you only use them at home?
I had a hand made wooden squonk mod a few years ago and the wood didn’t stand up well to leaks or coming into contact with e liquid which eventually jammed up the fire button. As stab wood is made using a resin - is it impervious to this?
Is stabwood prone to cracking over time?
And finally with reference to the Pumper squonk mod - the bottle and pump system is proprietary so is it long lasting and does it have any common faults?
Many thanks in advance for any information you can offer.
Every morning when I take the dog out, I take my eGo and EVOD Glass with Cinnabun liquid out onto the porch while she does her thing in the yard. One thing I've noticed, though, is that every time I take a hit, she turns and looks at me. There's no audible whistle and no gurgle. Think I should drill out the air holes a bit? LOL
Hi,
Threads are going to stick, it's a fact of life. Here's a fix that works.
You'll need 1) thin rubberized gloves 2) two pairs of pliers (with curved jaws, not straight) and 3) 220 grit sandpaper for metal
The steps are;
1) buy a pair of small-sized mechanic or garden gloves. The ones with rubber over fabric
2) cut off one inch of the finger tips (off the gloves, not your fingers)
3) slide the tips over the jaws of your pliers
4) put the pliers on either side and twist; righty-tighty, lefty-loosey (unless you have backward threads, usually not)
A couple things I found that improve it even more;
1) used sandpaper to smooth the sharp ridges on the pliers; wrap the sandpaper around a pencil till it fits the curvature of the ridges, I put the pencil in a drill and made quick work of it. They won't cut through the gloves so easily.
2) gently sand the tops of the threads on your tank, rough areas here sometimes cause the sticking. Don't sand much, just till they feel smooth.
it works, I Gar-on-tee it.
Begins now.
I've had a TC mod for abit but never usedthe TC.
Then a guy at work got an Invader and I used it. Its nice.
So off to Temco for wire.
Not really gonna mess with it today but I wrapped a quickie. Its more of a spring then a coil but thats what they say.
I have almost all dual coil tanks and I'm not there yet so I grabbed a Taifun and installed the "spring".
Wow. This is pretty amazing. The flavor is unreal. I only vape one thing so its the same juice but I'm like one of them wine guys. I can taste traces of wood fired oak cask in the VG and I can pick out each of the five flavors in the citrus mix. The menthol, which is perfect is now maybe abit much.
If we assume my tenth coil will be perfect I gotta say this is a great way to kick off 1-9.
I got an authentic yep RDA off rbavaporstore.com. The screws that go into the posts are so long that, with 24 gauge in the post, the screw won't start to screw into place. I got 28ga to fit and I can screw them down but 24 gauge doesn't work. Is there anything I can do to change this?
I was thinking I could sand the screws down or maybe drill the post holes bigger so that the kanthol has more room to be tightened down with the screws
Thanks for any help
A bit of a background, I started vaping with a disposable and eventually switched to a pod mod with the Frenzy. I liked it a lot but eventually switched to the Vapefly Jester after finding out that it has a rebuildable deck. The Jester kinda set the standard for me when it comes to how I want to vape but my only gripe with it is that the battery doesn't last and it's very hard to fine tune when it comes to the flavors that I vape. I also wanted to buy something that's more modular so I could replace the bits and pieces without having to re-purchase the whole setup should it die.
Fast forward to now and I decided to buy a Geekvape Lucid kit. It's really cheap where I live and offers a wider variety of atomizers in terms of size because it has support for 24mm diameter as opposed to the Eleaf iStick Pico 75W's 22mm. These are dated mods I know but the pool for mods and atomizers in my country aren't really as vast, albeit they can be a lot cheaper. Anyways, I decided to pair it with the Ammit MTL RDA and so far I'm liking it. The draw is perfect and the flavor is about as good if not a hair worse than my Jester. My current build on it is a 0.6 ohm Kanthal 26ga and I vape it at 20W. I vape 0mg freebase liquid with the ratio usually being 70/30 or 80/20 VG/PG depending on the flavor.
What I'm looking for is a setup that can pretty much accommodate higher VG liquids that can improve on the setup I have now while still maintaining that tight MTL draw. Typical mtl setups that I find are more geared towards higher PG ratios whereas the sub-ohm options typically have looser airflow and really wide drip-tips which I don't like.