Return Of The Tube Mod

Evic VT 60W by Joyetech PREORDER | Vape Street


eVic VT 60W PREORDER

ONLY $65 DURING PREORDER!!

Presenting the eVic-VT 60W, its new cutting edge technology of temperature control, embodying the concept of a healthy alternative lifestyle. eVic-VT features a super large OLED screen, supporting VT-Ti (Titanium)/ VT-Ni (Nickel)/ VW mode, and battery capacity of 5000mah.
The Variable Temperature (VT) brings out a different flavor experience with the change of temperature settings, not only improving the taste,but also saving battery and liquid consumption. eVic-VT is not your typical vape, it’s an evolutionary start.
Features:
Size: 47*25.5*85.6mm
Capacity: 5000mAh
Output mode: VT-Ti/VT-Ni/VW Mode
Temperature Range: 100-315℃/200-600˚F
Output Wattage: VT Mode:1W-60W
VW Mode:1W-50W
Output Voltage: 0.5V-8.0V
Resistance Range: 0.05-1.0ohm for VT mode
0.15-3.5ohm for VW mode
Color: Racing Yellow, Cool Black, Dazzling White
eVic-VT Visual Display:
VT-Ti mode/VT-Ni mode/VW
Wattages/ Voltages
Atomizer Resistance
Battery power/Puff/Time
ETA: Approximately mid June 2015  

Temperature control testing results are available for the DiCoDes Dani 25 using the stock SS profile, he imgur.com/a/89GNaPJ

or

Temperature Control Testing Results: DiCoDes Dani25 tube mod (~$300 USD) : electronic_cigarette

TLDR: This is a $400 AUD mod that doesnt produce a premium temperature control experience in many states. The method of temperature control this mod uses produces a wavy temperature experience you can both hear and feel in most cases. Like PWM, it creates a band of temperature outcomes from pulsing more power than it needs to keep the coil temperature maintained. It mostly succeeds at providing dry hit protection, but unless you are using high resistance high or high mass builds, there are smoother and more accurate outcomes on a range of cheaper mod. The TCR value can only be set in 5C steps so that makes it impossible to dial in but fortunately the built in SS mode (TCR92) is reasonably accurate and consistent on average. Overall the default SS setting is slightly under the set temperature. Between the premium priced boards, both DNA and YiHi methods produce a better temperature control outcome than this DiCoDes board in terms of smoothness, accuracy and range around the set temperature (I think objectively?). If someone wants to lend me a different DiCoDes to test, I will pay for shipping and be very careful with it.  

the little cig bats just dont last long and at the time i started was really weak but that what made me look

for an up grade and thats how i found this place and learned every thing from reading videos and what not

and im using the orchid v3 great tank and the nemesis clones and dont touch my other stuff. every ones

different and sense you have batteries now that have VV/ vw and that cost about the same as a blue start up kit
Electronic Cigarette Kits | E Cigarette Kit | Rechargeable Kits well really its alot cheaper. and a tank that has

adjustable air flow now days for 6 bucks. why would you suggest a njoy or blue ecig. thats why 90 % of us are

here because we waisted money on them and needed something stronger. with the adjustabilty of some of

these cheap but great batteries/mods and airflow tanks i cant in good faith point some one to a item that

just didnt do the trick

that is a waist of cash. pointing some one to a mod that has adjustments makes alot more sense and

increases there chances of quiting and staying quit and spend less money. some of us where not that lucky

but we started when vaping was a baby its growing fast and like computers theres a upgrade every day. so i

do not see the point it pushing some one to a blu or some random stuff like that when there are alot off really

good options out there with adjustments so the user can suite there needs. save you money in the long run.

wish you guys would think about that a little bit

it took us years to learn what we know now why make a new guy go through what we had no choice to go through

why not suggest something with adjustable airflow like the
$9.58 Authentic KangerTech GeniTank Bottom Dual Coil BDC Clearomizer - 2.4ml / 1.8ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

or

$21.96 Authentic Aspire Nautilus Mini BVC Clearomizer - 2.0ml / 1.8ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

its a great tank and super cheap adjustable air flow and easy to replace parts

and batteries like the

$25.96 Authentic Innokin iTaste VV V3.0 VV / VW 800mAh Rechargeable Battery - w/ charging cable at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Variable Voltage: voltage can be adjusted from 3.3 – 5.0 volts in .1 volt increments Variable Wattage: Wattage can be adjusted from 6.0 – 11.0 W in .5 watts increments Ohms meter: Resistive Load Detection Puff Counter: The puff counter will record how many puffs you have taken. The records will be cleared when the device is turned off Short Circuit/Atomizer Protection: Helps protect the iTaste VV against faulty atomizers Over-Discharge Protection: The iTaste VV monitors the battery voltage and will automatically turn off when the battery is discharged LED Battery Indicator: The iTaste VV battery utilizes an advanced capacity display via green, yellow and red LED lights. Users will know the battery’s capacity via the color of the LED Button The LED lights will show green, yellow or red to indicate full battery life, half capacity or charging needed Superior Battery Life: The iTaste VV e-cigarette features a built-in 800 mAh polymer Li-Ion rechargeable battery 510 Threaded: The iTaste VV is threaded to accept 510 accessories, including the iClear10,iClear16 and iClear30 clearomizers ON/OFF Battery Switch: Quickly clicking three times will power the device on or off. Once the device is on, holding down the button will activate the battery. This safety feature prevents the atomizer from turning on while it's in your pocket or bag, as well as inadvertent settings changes 10-Second Cutoff: If the button is held down for 10 seconds or longer, the iTaste VV will shut itself off until the button is released Passthrough: The iTaste VV is charged through a Micro USB Port. You can recharge it with any standard MicroUSB cable. It can also work as a pass-through device for simultaneous vaping and charging Settings Retention: The device remembers the last voltage or wattage used when switching batteries Display Information: The bright display shows resistance (ohms), voltage, wattage, atomizer voltage output, puff count, and last-used settings
or

$25.36 Authentic Innokin iTaste CLK 1280 VV 1280mAh Rechargeable Battery - w/ charging cable / brass + stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Variable voltage: The rotational wheel adjusts voltage in the increamens (3.5V, 3.8V, 4.0V, 4.3V, 4.5V, 4.8V, 5.0V) To set your desired voltage turn the rotational wheel to the left or right until you hear an audible click Press quickly 5 times to turn ON/OFF The battery capacity is displayed via green, yellow and red LED lights Green = fully charged Yellow = half charged Red = low power (please charge) 10s cut off protection Short circuit/atomizer protection Over-discharge protection Low voltage warning (lower than 3.3V, red LED blinking for eight seconds and then automatically power off) Compatible with eGo/510 connection With micro-USB charging port Standby current: 50uA max Maximum output current: 3.5A Maximum output wattage: 15W Clearomizer resistance: 1.2ohm (minimum), recommendation 2.5ohm Short circuit protection: 0.6 +/- 0.2ohm something in that sense that can run a dual coil tank like the kangertech at 1.2-2.4 ohms easy

vs something like a spinner that was really made for single coils at the time

and pointing them to new items that havent had the test of time like some of these mods do. seems like people are using them like ginne pigs to see how it works. thats not right

should be pointing them to items that have proven there selfs so they dont have to go through what we had to when we started.  

Well I did a quick search and couldn't find a review for the Sigelei 30watt mini and figured I'd make one now that I received mine. I have no clue how to post vids through my phone so I apologize for the primitive text review haha. So here we go my review of the Sigelei 30watt mini:

Includes:
Sigelei 30watt mini
Micro usb charger cable (located inside battery slot)

The 30watt box mod is yet another great mod from Sigelei. Standing a little over 3 inches tall and an inch deep it is definitely a stealthy little device. This device comes with the standards of all sigeleis. A fire button, 2 function buttons and a display screen. And of course it's loaded with the standard safety functions:
Low voltage protection
High voltage warning
Reverse polarity protection
Low resistance protection
Short circuit protection
It also includes 5 memory banks for quick wattage changes. Wattage range from 5-30 watts in .1 increments.
PWM mode and DC-DC mode. 5 click power on-power off. Voltage display and ohm display aswell. The device requires 1 18650 lithium ion battery which inserts to the back of the device via magnetic battery door, that's right! MAGNETIC! Now here are some pros and cons I've found for the mod.

Pros:
Clicky buttons, gotta love the click.

The magnetic battery door

Size, this thing feels great in hand and fits nicely in pocket with a Kanger subtank on it.

It's made of a nice solid aluminum alloy without any goofy etching or screws.(except for on the top and bottom)

Extremely easy interface. As this is my first box mod I found it nice and easy to navigate the modes and memory banks.

Most tanks and rdas sit nice and flush on the box. I'm using a 22 mm subtank mini and there is no over hang. And even with a 25 mm tank there isn't much at all.

Cons:
Now these aren't necessarily cons but just things I personally didn't find great.

It comes with a silicon sleeve, and I don't feel it necessary. And with it on the buttons become flush and harder to press.

Small screen. I am far sighted so having to squint all the time blows. You 20/20 people will have no problem though haha.

Doesn't include a battery. For something that is definitely targeting newer vapers, not hobbyists, I felt it probably should have had one with it.

The fact that it changes wattage at .1 increments is pointless honestly. I can't tell the difference between 15.3 watts and 16 watts, so what's the point?


For everything it does and everything the device comes with, it's definitely a good choice of beginners or seasoned vapers looking for another nice mod. Price varies from vendor to vendor but is pretty on point. I received mine from VapeHappy.com for 36 bucks. It also comes with a 3 month warranty from Sigelei.
I highly recommend this for just about anyone and give it a 8.5/10 due to the fact it doesn't come with a battery.

Again sorry for no video and no pics but I can't figure that crap out on my phone. I hope you enjoyed my review on the sigelei 30watt mini.  

Hi guys,

Is it really normal for an atomizer to get hot especially when using dual coils?
I just created a dual coil a couple of minutes ago using 24 gauge kanthal wire, 10 wraps each on a 2.4mm precision screw driver. My meter shows that the resistance is at 0.4 ohms, being curious and all since this is the first time that I made a dual coil, i decided to test it out.
Got some good flavor and vapor, though the vapor is warmer than I would want it to be ( I prefer cold vapor)

After taking a couple of 5 secs drag, I notice that my atomizer became hot, not warm, but hot. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I am doing something wrong or have I done something wrong when creating my coils?
Please help.

Here are some pictures of my device and atomizer. ( Philbox wood mod running on 2 pcs of AWT 18650 2600mah battery, my atty is Haze by vapehead origins)


 

Hello ECF community,

I have recently ordered a kick from Ebay. It's not a kick 2, I think it's the original. It may even be a fake replica. Anywho's, I am having issues getting it to work. When i connect it in my mod, I'm not getting any electric current. It's as if it's not receiving any power from the battery, or not delivering power to the tank.

Any ideas? Thank you so much in advance!

Is it possible I need the Ohms to be in working range of the kick? I have no idea what the range would be, but my atty is at 1 Ohm.

 

I've always wondered whats better for efficiency. In a regulated mod I can't imagine it really makes a difference in vape performance, I'm currently keeping my builds at a lower resistance by winding parallel coils. My goto build comes to about 0.4ohms and I run it in the range of 28-38w, usually set at 32w, if I wound it in series it would be around 1.6ohm which would need about 7v to get to 30w and at my Aegis solos max voltage of 8v would provide 40w. The only issue with this is that it limits the wattage range you can run at, since I sometimes do crank this build upto 42w, although it does start to burn above 45w.

The one advantage of running at a high voltage and a lower current is that theoretically there should be less energy loss in the transmission of power to the coils (like in the pin, the posts and the wiring connecting the 510), although depending on the construction of the mod/tank it may not be significant enough to provide any benifit. I can imagine that it's not that simple either as the mod is having to boost the voltage more which may cause the voltage conversion efficiency to suffer. Although in my dual cell mod it may be benificial since the input voltage is around 6.4-8.4v, although I tend to use this for my higher wattage builds.

This may just be me because I'm obsessed about how much voltage is dropped across cables, I always use the high quality wiring and keep it as short as possible because it is actually quite surprising how much energy you can loose through a cheap cable. Even good quality wire at higher amps can drop a significant amount of power.  

So with unrestricted mechanical mods, how does one know how many watts, volts, and amps being applied through ohms law? Is it solely the voltage charge of the battery installed that will determine everything else because of how ohms law works?  

Greetings,

maybe I was bored. Maybe to much doom and gloom on all the bans of new gear and the shipping of it. I started to think - why not have some fun with some of the stuff I already have?



Cases in point - the two rigs in the picture above. I believe that all the hardware (mods and tanks) are over 5 years old. The setup on the left has a bit of a story about it.

Sitting on my desk is a few old tube mods that I wonder what it would be like to use again. I found a old (I think KFv3) tank laying around, built a very low mass 2ohm coil in it, filled it up and went and tried it out on my old 15W tube mods. Sadly not a one of them liked the KFv3 and would register the 2ohm coil. So what to do? I had a old Evic that surely could be put into power mode. While I was not to surprised that it all works (I've actually refilled the tank a few times and replaced the battery once) the vape is more restrictive than I tend to like and be it the build (or the 10W power mode) I don't really like the flavor of the unflavored juice with this. Another negative is that while it is top fill, there is no juice flow control so the atomizer get flooded each time the tank is refilled. While I could (and have) used it in a pinch, I can get 1-2 tank fills on a single 3000mah battery.

The setup on the right represents some historical firsts for me. Years ago when I first got into rebuilding a Lemo2 was one of three tanks I bought when I started. It was also my first top fill tank. Sitting under it is my first ever Dicodes mod (a #6). This mod is setup in TC mode with 380F temperature setting and 23W.

Be it the better tank or the use of TC mode, the setup on the right provides a good vape. The 26650 has enough mah to easily allow me to vape the tank dry (takes me most of the day) and since years ago I got Dicodes very over priced charger, I just drop the mod in the charger at the end of the day and its ready for more vaping in a few hours.

So, anyone else putting to use or having some fun with +5 year old vaping gear? How do you like it?


g.  

Due to a recent rash of vapers using mech mods without proper knowledge. here is a simple test for vapers who want to use unregulated devices, if you can confidently answer these questions, you just may be ready to take the plunge to a mech or unregulated box mod. If you cannot answer all of the questions, don't be discouraged, use the test as a base for the knowledge you may need to acquire.


1. Define ohms law using a short paragraph, and show the equation below.

2. Define watts law using a short paragraph, and show the equation below

3. Draw a simple open circuit.

4. Draw a simple closed circuit

5. Find the resistance of a circuit running at 3.9 volts with a 20 amp current

6. Find the voltage of a circuit running at .54 ohms with a 5 amp current.

7. Find the wattage of a 4.1 volt circuit at 2.3 ohms

8. You are wrapping a dual coil set up, while pinching your coil with metal tweezers you accidentally press the fire button,
the leg of the coil you are wrapping fires bright and then disintegrates, why has this happened?

9. Your mechanical mod is getting extremely hot, is making odd noises, and has an odd smell, what is happening
and what is the procedure in this situation?

10. What is the lowest safe resistance of a 4.2v lithium ion battery rated at 20 amps?

11. You have been using a battery for several hours now, and have noticed a sharp decline in vapor production,
why is this happening?

12. You wrap a coil that reads .42 ohms on your multimeter, what important factor should be remembered while using this coil?

13. You are using 2 stacked 18350 lithium ion batteries in your mod, what kind of circuit is this? what changes because of this?
what does not change?