Kanger Sub Mini Tank/ Dry Hits Help

I can only get about a 1-2 day life span out of coils that are organic cotton based. After 1-2 days, they start seeping a dark colored liquid into my tank and ruining the juice. This has happened in my Atlantis tank running Melo coils vaping at 32 watts and my Herakles tank running 55 watts. Keep in mind I vape about 7-10ml a day. Juices are 70VG/30PG or 80VG/20PG all at 3mg nic.

On the flip side, if I vape old school Atlantis coils at 32 watts on the same juices, I get a full week before this happens.

Any ideas on how to make cotton coils last longer?! For this reason, I can't wait to get my Lemo 2 in. I'll be able to rewick daily and not worry about cost.

The way things are going, I am losing so much money on coils it's nuts. See picture to see whats happening.

Oh yeah, this is happening on all kinds of juices I vape. Mt Baker Vapor, Vista Vapors, 4 Pillars, The Milk Man. Some are budget juices - others are premium. No matter what juice I use, it happens.

The BIGGEST killer is Zeus Juice with 80%PG, 20%VG. This juice kills a coil in one tank full. I'm guessing the sweeteners in that juice do it.

It's frustrating because I LOVE my Herakles tank running at 55W but if I have to replace the coil every 1-2 days, that's SO expensive.  

Hey all, sorry if this is posted in the wrong place but I was wondering if anyone has tried a 24g coil build in the subtank mini rba deck and if it worked or not? Regardless I'm going to build a coil a little later to try and see how it works but I thought I would ask before hand on the odd case someone has tried, I've searched a bit and couldn't find anything, everyone seems to like twisted coils in these. The main reason I'm interested in doing this is because I've never vaped a successful tank with no burnt/dry hits yet so I figure the 24g ramp up time might help settle this problem, at least for me. I'm interested to see the thoughts so please reply  

Two issues I wanted to fix. The first is the battery run time using the low ohm coils. Second is when the e-liquid gets to the top of the sub ohm coil housing in the Kangertech I've noticed a lot of dry hits when heavy vaping, ( I like a higher VG juice. ) I would find myself closing the air intakes and sucking hard to get the wick saturated, ( a real pain in the ***. )
NOTE: I like an airy hit and run the air intake ports full open.
So here's what I did.
I've drilled the wick holes out to 3.5mm in the Kangertech coil housing. Then built a 1.1 ohm coil with 4 strands of 32ga. kanthal, ( twisted together first ), 5 wraps around a 3.47mm screwdriver. The coil was very springy to work with but got a bit stiffer after torching t closed to 1/4" width using adjustable tweezers. I used regular ball cotton for the wick in this experiment. The coil came in at 1.1 ohm.
Primed the wick and filled tank with a little bit of juice, just below the top of the coil housing.
All I can say is WOW. The first 10 hits taste a bit crappy but after the break in, WOW.
Taste and vapor production are great. There's a bit of crackle but no pops. Crackle I don't mind, Pops I mind. The ClouporT8 counted 75 hits and now the e-juice level is just above the wicking ports by a hair and still working great with full open air intake ports.
I will add post after I've used this set up for awhile.
Curious what other think!
VapeOn  

Today I discovered one tank wasn't giving me much of a hit no matter what so, although I thought it might be too soon, I decided to replace the coil. Unfortunately before I did I had turned up my MVP 20w to about over 7 and I burned some juice?

After I replaced the coil I indeed began getting good hits again and turned down the MVP. But what can I do to avoid this in the future since some tanks cook better than others and I keep forgetting which levels I have them at.

And how do I get that burnt taste out of the tank? Thanks!  

I am new to the mod world and I entered the foray with an IStick 30 and a Kanger Subtank Mini. When I use an old cheapo tank that came off an earlier Ego my juice taste fine. It's a 2.7 ohm coil set at 7.5 watts at 4.5 volts.The problem is the taste with my Kanger hooked up. It is very harsh. I also do not get the same visible exhaust (sorry, but I can't think of another term ) I operate it at about the same watts. I have tried both a sub ohm coil and a 1.2 ohm coil. I have also tried different air intake settings. One thing to note: The cheapo tank gives me a much tighter draw (It's harder to draw in the air). I have adjusted the Kanger down to the smallest inlet and the resistance still seems very easy.

Would the difference in resistance of the coils affect the taste with running the same power. Do some juices just not taste good with different tanks? I must be doing something wrong. Maybe I assembled it wrong by leaving out something but for the life of me I can't see what? I did insert a little piece of cotton in one of the coils which was foreign to me.

Any ideas? Fire away and don't assume anything. Again, I am ignorant with these mods so I am learning here. Thanks a bunch  

Is this normal?

This tank is new for me and the coil has cotton coming out of the holes. Def did not notice this when I first put it together and filled. Is this supposed to be happening? My old aspire coils never looked like that.


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Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.

Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.

I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.

I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.

No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.

This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).

So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?

WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????  

Looking for a new non sub ohm tank. I have a few sub ohm tanks and just can't get into it. It's just not for me. I enjoy a flavorful, cooler mouth hit rather than huge low flavor lung hits. I am currently vaping my old nautilus mini and still like it but I am starting to get some chest pains. It may be my juice or just me but something about the coil fill material just makes me uneasy. I'd like to get a tank that performs like the natilus mini but has a better more pure coil fill material. Any suggestions or am I looking for a unicorn?  

So i'm not familiar with every single atomizer on the market. They're all different in their design. One potential problem i do believe to be universal in all these devices though is an "Airlock".

Regardless of how much cotton wool has been crammed into the wells of an RTA, or whether you primed your drop in coil enough, an airlock will prevent the e liquid from getting to the wick everytime. Time and time again you either re-wick or swap out the drop in coil. Then you think "there is definitely something wrong with the atomizer".

How many times have you built a new coil, or simply re-fiiled on an existing wick, and then found all you get is dry hits and you can't figure out why ?. Maybe you eventually decide "this atomizer is no good".

The simple solution is to add more e liquid than you think you should when "priming" the coil/wick. It's not a process which takes just a minute or two. The whole idea is to let the e liquid soak right through the cotton wool, through the channels until it starts to seep out the other end of those channels, where ever that might be !. To go from a tank to a coil/wick the e liquid has to travel through the channels.

If cotton wool soaked in e liquid is at one end of the channels then that is what is causing the "airlock".

Simply put "it's "trapping" the air in the channels and causing an airlock".

You get rid of all the air in the channels by "bleeding" the system. This should be the most important part of "priming". Allowing the e liquid you've added as a primer to expel all the air from the system. Without doing this you are running the risk of successive dry hits and confusion.

So you add e liquid as a primer, let it soak into the cotton wool then add a few drops more. Then, wait a few minutes to see how far the e liquid has got. Wait for it to come out the other end because that what you should be looking for. Once you see it coming out the other end of the channels you know the system has been fully bled. And then you can reassemble your device and fill the tank.

 

Hey all,

So, I've been really happy with my new setup (iStick 50w and 30w, Nautilus and Mini Nautilus). Everything has been working smoothly, but I have a problem with the replacement coils I purchased (and cannot return).

Went to go change out the coil in one of my tanks this evening. Filled the tank up as usual, made sure the air shaft and drip tip were clean, screwed on my new coil, filled the tank, and let it sit and wick up for half an hour. Took some pulls without firing, dropped it to 8w (to "step up" and prime the new coil), and immediately got a nasty burnt hit that I can still taste an hour later. Unscrewed the tank to see what was wrong, and noticed the wicking material was bone dry.

For the longest time, I could not figure out what happened, why it wasn't wicking...until I looked closer. The e-liquid holes on the replacement coil I have are TINY! The coils that came with the tanks have holes that are at least twice, maybe three times the diameter. The holes are so small that my e-liquid will not even enter them to soak the wicking material. I checked the serial number scratch off on Aspire's site and both boxes of replacement coils I have came up as authentic.

I'm displeased. $22 down the drain, now I have to rush and find a dealer who has the "correct" coils. I cannot use these coils whatsoever, and the dealer I purchased from does not accepted returns on atomizers.



On the left is the coil that came with the tank (both of my tanks came with this exact same coil, and two replacements that look exactly like it, but I've used them up and am on the new ones). On the right, the coil I purchased in a replacement pack of 5. You can see they look nearly identical, except for the size of the wicking holes. Also, the piece at the bottom seems a bit more flimsy, as you can see in the picture, it's not exactly straight with the rest of the atomizer.

So, can anyone point me to a dealer that has the coils I need? I'm afraid of ordering from somewhere and getting the ones on the right, which are useless and do not soak up any e-liquid whatsoever.