I just got my new petri RDA and put the coils on that came with it. Installed it properly as far as i know. I dont have an ohm tester however and when i plug the Petri onto my 20W eleaf istick (to try and see if it would come up with an ohm reading) it just said 0.0 ohms.
Is this just because the istick is 20w and cant handle subohm builds?
How do i go about testing the ohms without an ohm reader
I have a new istick 30w that I use with a smok micro adc2. I've used it with a new 2 ohm coil at 8 watts and is great. I changed to a used coil I had cleaned and things got weird. It's a 2 ohm coil and the istick is reading it at 4.9! At 8 watts the throat hit was too much so I went down to 6 watts. According to the manual the istick doesn't even fire to 4.9 ohms. So let's see what you got?
I have the Smok xPro M80 plus and I have a couple Kanger subtank minis I use with it. I usually use .5 ohm coils. Sometimes it will show the ohms fairly correctly at .54 or even .61, which seems close enough. However, as I puff, the ohms reading will tend to change after every few puffs. Sometimes it will even say up to 1.5 or 2.0 ohms on the same tank coil! One tank seems to do it worse than the other, but the two I use now both will change quite often, and once in awhile quite drastically. It sometimes helps if I unscrew the tank and screw it back on, but if it isn't really tight, the ohms read are really far off from what they should be. I'm not sure if it is the tanks or the M80 plus that has the problem. When it reads really high, if I don't catch it before I take a puff, it is horrible and burny-dry, since it thinks the ohms are so high...
Has anyone else had this problem and/or have any ideas as to how it can be fixed??
By the way, I've cleaned the connections and everything thoroughly, so it's not that...
Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts
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hi guys i'm going to try out rda's was just wondering what the lowest ohm resistance i could go on a eleaf istick 20w as i dont want to buy a new mod untill i'm sure an rda is the thing for me.
So I've been using a Kayfun v4 and provari p3 using the hybrid connector and have never been able to get th ohms below 2 using .2mm guage kanthal bought from Vape escape one 2 mm coiling tool and about 6 wraps was initially happy with that but after reading the results other users are having they typically end up around 1.2 1.4 ohms using far more wraps then I have been using I tried to increase my coil diameter to 2.5 mm and the ohms exploded to 5 ohms making it unusable I have noticed that my spring in the Kayfun gets incredibly dirty and charred with what I can describe only as soot if anyone has any insights into what could be going on I would much appreciate it ive been enjoying my Kayfun but I'm still looking for that mind blowing Vape I keep reading about
GS Air coils/GS 3ml tanks.
I Googlefied this and Did see One place that said A worn out tank could make coils not last as long. (Sounds near fetched to me...)
Can an old tank start Causing premade coils to show Low ohms, like. 05 ohm?
I am pretty sure these are factory coils not FT copycats.
Bruce in Ocala, Fl
My MVP 20 watt recently started to get a little wonky on me. I use 1.5 ohm coils in an aerotank but for some reason the MVP is readin it as 4.9 and sometimes even higher. Of course its not hitting right either. I know its not the coils because if i put that same tank on my MVP 2.0 it reads correctly. The MVP 20w doesn't do this all the time but today its been doing it all day. It won;t go below 5 ohms and sometimes its even higher. Is this thing shot?
I just Started rebuilding my kanger dual coils and im having a issue , seems like when i build them and check my ohms on my meter they are right where i want them but when i put them in my tank and fire them up the ohms fluxuate like crazy from low to high ohms, any idea why it happens ? It occurs even when i build single coils. Anyway to fix this? Thanks
I got my first Derringer today. Wanted to try it immediately although I bought it with the DAY AFTER (May 2106) in mind... but you know how it goes, you get a new toy and you want to try it out.
I'm really not into very low ohms so first I went for a single coil - 26 AWG Kanthal, 9 wraps for around 1.3 ohms. But I didn't like the way that could be wicked in an rda. So then I put in two 28 guage coils which I had previously coiled for my other atties. Together they gave me .8 ohms which is sort of ok. But I still am not quite happy with the wicking. These coils are 2mm internal diameter and there's not a lot of cotton you can put in there. The taste is good but my wicking is nowhere as fat as I see in some pics online.
Any advice?
I rebuilt a new coil 1.4 ohms. I am having this issue even with 1.2 ohms I have a 20 watt istick. So I know a lot of people have this harsh hit (not dry just hot) and a longer drip tip solves the problem. But for some reason I am barely getting any vapor production even at a higher watt and open air flow. Anyone have ideas if I am too vague please ask away.