Smokless Owl Firing Button Fix

So I recently bought a brand new Vaporesso Gen mod. Normally I stay away from compression/press fit 510 connections but I decided to give the Gen a shot. I've only had it 1 day, and already I've noticed that the 510 connection is raised slightly above the top of the mod and with a tank connected it is slanted towards the back of the mod. From what I can tell the 510 isn't loose at all. But it still slightly worries me. And a couple times I've taken a hit and everything is fine. Then all of the sudden while my finger is still pressing down the fire button it stops firing. Has anyone else experienced this with the Gen?  

Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?

This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.

Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.

- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.

- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.

- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.

- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.

- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).

- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.

- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.

- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.

- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.

- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).

If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.  

hi i have and endura Endura T18 vape and it is fully charged and full tank but when i press the button it goes orange and is still orange when i take my finger off the button but then it goes off. when i press the button the cape is not firing and doesn’t work. what do i do?  

I've got a couple of these little mods and both have the same problem. They continue to fire after the button is released. When it happens the display changes to the power on/off and keeps firing until the unit restarts (presumably after the 15 second cut off?). I can only think that the mod is registering 3 presses when I fire which triggers the screen change, and there is a bug which stops the release of the fire button registering. Anyone experienced this? Any fix? I'm surprised it's happening with two units so it must be happening to someone else!  

So I recently bought a smoktronic abs box mod v2 and whenever I screw on a tank or rda on it, it fires without me firing it. What could be the deal and how can I fix this?  

Hi there...a month ago I bought myself smok rpm80...is it considered normal when the firing button is being pressed it kinda felt rubbery or mushy abit? The pod fires flawlessly though.  

I paid $250 bux for a full set up a while back, and the little inner copper firing pin contact broke, right where the thread screw into the bottom button. I got the broken piece out of the button threads, but I need a new copper contact pin. I went to the store and they said they don't have it, and they cant contact the manufacturer.

I am so irritated at the customer service there. I have spent well over a couple grand on crap from them over the years and they basically told me "oh well, that sucks, buy a new one"


Im hoping that someone on here can either help point me in the right direction of someone to talk to that makes the Turtleship V3 Mod, or someone that might have a replacement part. It cant be more than a couple bucks for the little piece. I would of expected them to contact the manufacturer and just give me the replacement pin for free.

Once I have the money I am going to buy something like a hexohm or similar 100w box mod, but until then, I need to fix this, and plus I want to have it as a back up for if my boxmod goes out and needs to be fixed. Given that, I have a seperate question on who you guys think has the best customer service and warranty for box mods? What are the "flagship" devices on the market with all the bells and whistles and most reliable / durable build design?


Thanks a lot for any help you guys can offer as far as being able to get my mech mod fixed. Id have to just throw 200 bux in the trash.


Help! :/  

Well , I aint even gonna say much this thing is better than any mech mod out there . You guys told me to start building higher ohm coils and i did , I build a 2.3 ohm coil . My 2*18650 box mod performed like .... with it , I had to hold the button for 2 - 4 secconds before draw and i still got minimal vapor . So i got the istick 50w , i set it to just half of its full potention , 25W and it is firing up the 2.3 ohm coil as soon as I press the button and I am getting extreme vapor production . Also size i knew it will be small , but i can not believe how small it actually is , absolutely amazing , build quality is also amazing . I should have moved from mech mods to VW a long time ago .  

Hi
I got myself second Caliburn and from the start I feel that auto firing is not as fast as my first one, just like a second or so behind. If I use the button it seems to be OK.

Also, it feels more airy. I check the same pod on both devices and first one seems to have a bit more restrictive airflow. Or, due to late auto firing, I am inhaling first clean air instead of vape, and thus, the feeling of less restrictive airflow.

And lastly, which is not a problem, but it is not feeling OK, second Caliburn pod latching thing feels more loose, where on the first, when I push pod into the slot, I can feel and hear distinctive click, on the second, just a very little bump and very shallow click.

Would first, auto fire delay constitute good grounds for warranty replacement? I got it less than a week ago.

Any thoughts?  

hi my smok 22 vape pen button is jammed in so the top bit is fully pushing in and the bottom is fully not pushed in. it’s not firing or anything when i don’t want it to so that’s good but it also won’t fire at all. idk how to add images