Blu Plus Battery Sensor Problem. Damn.

So I have a bit of nic stored in a relatively affordable freezer (Freezer Model: EdgeStar CMF151L-1 1.1 Cu. Ft. Medical Freezer with Lock) that is rated for minimum temperatures of -20°C (-4°F) under room-temperature conditions.

There are more expensive freezers available rated for "LOW" -40°C, and some rated "Ultra Low" -80°C. I'm wondering if the benefits of storage at those deep freeze temps are worth the heavy investment of a medical\pharma designed freezer as opposed to an inexpensive one like I'm currently using.
What are your thoughts?

Also, I don't like just trusting an appliance to do it's job and hoping I discover if it fails on a whim. Some come with audible alarms if a certain temp is reached but I'm not even on the same floor as the appliance and wouldn't hear it so I'm looking at monitoring and alerting so when a configurable temp is reached lets say 20°F I'll get a notification either by text on my phone, email, or a phone app.
Below are contenders I've found on Amazon but not thrilled with any of them along with the non Amazon solution I'm going with.
Note: sensors can vary in design meaning some can connect directly to the internet via your home's wireless router and others require a separate device (Gateway) which they communicate with, and the gateway connects to the internet via your wireless router.
*La Crosse Alerts Mobile 926-25101-GP Wireless Monitor System Set with Dry Probe (~$30)
Sensor is inserted from outside the freezer through door seal which I do not like.
*SensorPush Wireless Thermometer and Gateway (~$150)
Thumbs up for wireless sensor + free monitoring + separate device (gateway) for internet communications but the sensor uses a tiny coin battery. Looks like changing the sensor battery will be a regular routine.
*Temp Stick Wireless Remote Temperature & Humidity Sensor (~$150)
Thumbs up for wireless sensor that uses 2x AA batteries but it is also the gateway which looks like it will burn through batteries as well requiring regular battery replacement.
*Winner*....
Monnit Wireless Temperature Sensor + Gateway + Basic Monitoring (~$325)
I'm going with the solution from "monnit.com" because they obviously provide commercial solutions with lots of technology development and appear to have quality products.
I'll use a wireless sensor + gateway + free monitoring. They have different levels of monitoring but the basic level is free for one user account with one network and since I have one freezer with one gateway I have one network. However if I had multiple freezers all talking with one gateway it would still be one network.
**ALTA Wireless Temperature Sensor - AA Battery Powered (~$105)
The sensor is wireless running on 2x AA batteries but it only needs to talk to the gateway so the batteries should last a very long time between changes.
**ALTA Ethernet Gateway 4 (~$220)
Gateway plugged in to your wireless router that communicates to the internet.
**iMonnit Basic (Software) (Free)
Mobile app that provides...
Wireless Sensor Monitoring
Remote Monitoring Solutions
Online Remote Monitoring

What are your thoughts?

Thanks all, hope this thread is helpfull.  

Hi All, I brought this topic up a long time ago and basically procrastinated about doing it until recently. With folks preparing for the future I thought it might be helpful to offer a recommendation for adding a temperature sensor to a freezer when storing NIC. With proposed taxes and impending mail restrictions, stored NIC is/will be a very important item since it will not be easily replaced. If it goes bad, then that's it.
I wanted a way to be alerted of failure and this is it.
Installation was easy. Just drilled a hole through the back of the freezer, inserted the sensor lead and plugged any extra space in the hole with "non-hardening duct seal compound" found at my local Home Depot.
The sensors communicate remotely with a WIFI gateway and will email me should the temperature rise above a specified temperature.
There are many to choose from, some are cheap and some not. I purchased a professional grade by "Monnit" because they have a longer range for communications between sensors and the gateway as well as brand recognition.
Pretty easy to setup and the monitoring service is free provided all sensors are on the same home network. I did a good amount of research and learned to just stay away from systems that don't use sensor leads but instead the whole sensor goes in the freezer. Basically the batteries fail within weeks instead of years.
Hope this is helpful.  

Hello,
I own the SMOK Infinix for more than 3 months now. I change the cotton myself for the pod and started having issues with the device.

After 2 months it would fire a while after pulling. Fixed by cleaning the inside of the device and removing the paper cover on the sensor. Worked perfectly.

Now, few days ago, I noticed I had to pull harder for the device to activate.

And now, literally an hour ago it would stop pulling. Isolated the airflow for a tighter pull worked for couple of minutes, now it just stopped. After some blows from the charging port it would do the infinite firing bug and that's the only way I can get a hit. Please help.

P.s I did clean the inside of the device again as much as I could. It gets a really good connection, just won't fire.  

I got a problem with my Luxotic Surface. I'm using a LG Choco Battery 18650, it was fully charged and when I press the fire button suddenly it appears for Battery Low even the battery was on fully charged. I tried my spare battery maybe its just a mistake putting a fully charge battery, but it was the same issue also with the spare battery. I tried the 2 batteries with my Geek Vape Aegis 100W to check whether my batteries are already broke but it works fine. I was vaping for my Luxotic Surface by 55.0 Wattage, 0.21 ohms, 3.40 Voltage. Can someone help me out to fix this problem?  

i want to buy a new battery but i'm living in korea.
so i decided don't purchase blu battery because it process is rather complicate ,
even i don't want to suffer it again.
anyway fortunately, i found few 510 mini battery on korea ecig webshop.
here is my question
if i buy a new battery then it could be charged in the pack?(charge seat for blu battery)  

Hey guys, sorry if I post this in the wrong place, but I didn't find a sub forum that seems appropriate.

So, I have a BCV Surfrider clone (hybrid) and it has been working great but all the sudden this last weekend I noticed one of my batteries just stopped working.. not a big deal. So I put in another battery. Still not working. So I was playing around and I noticed that my button got extremely hot. I took the battery out and noticed that it was hotter than I've ever felt.

I was playing around with it to see if something is wrong, but everything seems fine. I accidentally put in the battery backwards and it worked fine like how it used to.

Anyone have any idea what is causing this?  

SO every video Ive seen of someone causing a battery to vent it took a few minutes of the battery sizzling and popping and heating up, smoking, etc. So why do people talk about a battery venting like its an imminent threat? As if say you built a 0.1 ohm coil and didnt know it, fired it and it would blow up in your face? I've never seen it happen or heard of that. Not saying it cant, I'm just wondering where the idea that a battery can just instantly combust without notice is coming from.  

Hi,

I bought a new vape cartridge but it won’t work with the battery I have. The battery is charged and just flashes blue when it’s screwed in and pressed.

Do I need to buy a new battery?
Any info would be awesome. You can see the battery and cartridge in the photos.  

Can I use an external battery pack to charge an IPV Mini?

I have a 10,000mAh external battery to charge my cell phone (Note 4, with a 3500mAh battery), which has 2 options for charging: 1.5v=1A and 2.5v=2.1A.

Is it recommended? Is it safe? Are there any precautions I need to take if I use the battery pack?

I haven't gotten around to getting an extra 18650 battery (and charger) for the IPV Mini. I've finally realized that it takes maybe 2-3 hours to charge the battery via the USB cable. But the one battery doesn't quite last me all day, depending on how heavy I'm using the Mini.

I usually carry a Volcano Inferno once the Mini dies, but the Volcano really sucks in comparison to the Mini. I'd love to be able to charge the Mini while I'm out and about.

I've added a pic of the external battery for specific information.


Thanks for all your help.  

Hey vapers.

Wanted to start a thread for discussing the DNA 250c chip, all of its features, options, performance, etc.

I started this threat to not only begin a discussion about the DNA 250c chip, but to also share something with new users that may prolong the life of their batteries.

With battery life, I mean the number of charge cycles it'll take before noticeable decline in performance, and general battery health. My advice of setting the cutoff voltage higher will shorten actual run time.

I've noticed that 'out of the box' the DNA 250c is set to soft cutoff the battery at 2.75 volts.
This results in a 3.00 volt reading on my charger when I get the batteries out.

This, in the opinion of many, is too low for batteries to go, and especially to remain there for any length of time.

So, I want to share with you how to change the settings so that your mod will cease using the battery at 3.1 volts, which results in your battery resting at a healthier 3.35 volts.

Here's how :


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Click the image for a larger view.

Basically, in Escribe, go to Options, then User Interface, then Advanced. Select Mod tab, and then Battery tab. There you will see the 2.75 volt setting, and you should change that to 3.1 volts. Upload setting to device, and you're done.

The DNA 250c comes with a wide array of options and customized performance.

I'd love for people to chime in and share their tips and expertise with Escribe and the DNA 250c chip.

So let's hear t !

P.S. When will Evolv update Escribe to list 21700 batteries ?




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