So I'm a toodle puffer. My normal set-up is a Joyetech Evic Easy and a Kayfun lite with unflavored liquid. The Evic Easy has a regulated 3.3 volt mode and an unregulated mode. I run the Kayfun (original V1) at 1.5 ohms, so I'm vaping at a whopping 7 watts.
Just on a whim, since I was ordering some supplies and stuff, I decided to try one of those new-fangled subtank minis...hey, it was on sale. This is my result after 2 days.
First, the .5 ohm was out of the question, so I primed and put in the 1.2 ohm OCC coil. Well, this was just not a good fit for me. The problem is, I think, the wire guage. I bet the coil is made from 24-26 guage wire. My 3.3 volts took forever to heat that wire. I had to hold the button down for 3-5 seconds to get any sizzle at all, and just couldn't get much vapor.
So, the next step is to try the rba base. This is very kayfun-like, and I built it the same way. Inspecting it, I found a burr on one of the juice channels, but filed that off with a needle file. I built a 1.8 ohm 30ga 2mm coil that turned out to be 2.0 ohm...oh, well close enough. Wicked it with my typical cotton ball and laid the tails across the deck.
I looked at the mouthpiece. Are you kidding me, looks like a tailpipe. Swapped to a favorite drip tip, turned the airflow to the lowest setting, and started vaping.
I've gone thru 2 tanks, and it's working great. Maybe better than my kayfuns. I'm going to try rebuilding the OCC coils for backups, and will likely get a couple more rba bases. The beauty may be how easy it will be to swap out the coil.
So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............
Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.
So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again
Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.
Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.
I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.
I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.
No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.
This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).
So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?
WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????
Above all I prize comfort in vaping, which means easy filling, easy disassembling (for coil rebuilding), no leaks even if I leave my tank on its side or upside down for a few days. I do not need clouds and subohming. I My current everyday setup is RG280 or RGM2 – shielded glass tanks (tough to break) with protank coils (easy to rebuild). Not a single leak for half a year. But I’d like something which is a bit bigger than 2.8 ml (as for RG280) and does not need separate coil bases (as for protank).
I have tried couple RBAs. A while ago I have bought on impulse (do not drink and buy) Fogger V4. Found out it needs two coils (too many for me). I have tried to build with single coil (plugging not needed holes with cotton), it was not bad, but it was a bit leaking. With two coils – too cloudy. And its tiny butt hole plugged with Philips screw! Just for refilling I needed a needle-nosed bottle and a screwdriver! Not what I call comfortable. Recently I have bought Erlkönigin clone for $5 – I was ordering other things, it was on sale and I decided to try it, it was practically for free anyway. And I liked it, but not so much that to make it my prime time device. Two drawbacks: still needed needle nosed bottle and rather tough to disassemble (because of its press-fitting o-rings).
So, I am ready to try another RBA and I am asking on advice.
It must have:
- Single coil
- Easy to refill and disassemble
Desirable features:
- Filling with eye-dropper bottle (not with needle-nosed one)
- Ability to change coil without pouring out liquid (desirable, but not required)
- Glass tank (I just do not know when to add juice if I do not see its level)
And what can you say about this one, does it fit description of what I need?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3028/10009199/2050300
Hello.
So I think i kind like a cooler vape been getting some heavy lung feeling lately been vaping a 1.2 ohm single coil 28 g kanthal
cotton wick on kayfun clone v4 Tobecco, i would like to try like maybe 1.8 or a 2.0 ohm coil or is the kayfun v4 really better for
lower ohm coils I keep reading where the kayfuns sweet spot is like 1.2 - 1.5 i did lower my wattage from 14 to 12 but i like to seem some clouds more of a flavor chaser than a cloud person though
so i am just wondering if anyone has tried a kayfun around 2.0 ohms and what the vape was like
thank you
Just wondering what everyone who has used both tanks think of there effectiveness. A 1.6-1.8 bvc coil nautilus vs a 1.5 micro coil in a kayfun v4 (clone). Would you rate them the same?? I only ask because it seems the nic (6mg) in my nautilus tank at 17 watts has less effect than my kayfun 4 (tobecco clone) at 17 watts, (same juice 50/50 mix) Obviously the kayfun is not a dripper, but does the micro coil have any impact as far as vapor effectiveness??Sometimes I think I get a little nic sick compared to the the nautilus mini. idk maybe I'm just paranoid lol
Just as the title says..just bought a kayfun lite +/ Russian 91% clone, and the drip tip gets hot after a few hits..using mvp 2.0 that only goes to 11 w ( which is where I usually vape) with 1.7 coil/cotton wick..should I just look into another drip tip made of a different material? This is my first rta..my protank 2 tip never got hot even when chain vaping..the tank would warm up pretty good, but never the drip tip.
To all the mouth to lung (Tootle Puffers) here ... There was a time when the famous "Kayfun Lite-Plus V2" was the gold standard when it came to single coil / higher ohm / low amp Tootle Puffing.
Now that this atomizer (to include all the Chinese clones of it) are so very hard to come by (to include spare parts), has anyone here replaced there old Kayfun Lites with the new "Kayfun Lite 2019" atomizer ?
I just ordered a couple of Chinese clones of the Kayfun Lite 2019 so I can make the big changeover.
Good bye to the sweet Kayfun Lite-Plus V2
Almost 6 years vaping on this
Rest in Peace ....
Hey all.
So I've been vaping since January. I started out on a kanger ego and an aspire k1. Since then I've gone through aspire cf batteries, and finally made my way to my current set up. An mvp 3.0 or istick50w with my subtank mini.
At first using the stock occ coils with the subtank, I decided to buy some wire and cotton and here I am. Been building my own coils using the RBA section and loving it. I wick it properly and never get a dry hit, going anywhere from 18-25 watts, which is my preferred settings.
Now, it's only my preferred settings because I can't seem to go any higher. On either device. I get dry hits like crazy despite pancake wicking which I've specifically done to prevent said dry hits. I always have heard that it can possibly taste better the hotter it gets. And I don't mind a hot vape. But it won't let me try!
I'm well saturated, well wicked, and my juice can be anywhere form 50/50 to 70/30pg. I can do quick pulls on fully open, and slower toots on the middle setting on the subtank. I just can't go any higher than 25watts and I don't know why!
And that's not for just the coils I built. It's for the stock occ .5 ohm coil as well. And like I said all my cotton is beyond well saturated. Any help?
Hello Been vaping about 2 years now
My setups are Vaporshark Rdna 30 Istick 30 watt and a provari 2.5 and a IPv mini v2 30 watt
So like many others I have been juggling with wattage I currently Use A couple of kanger subtank minis using the RBA and a kayfun v4 I've been all over the place building ohms but have settled on 1.2 - 1.4 ohms BTW I'm not into sub ohms
So after many months of different ohms and watts with the help of steam engine I have found I like my vape at a heat flux of around 175 so to get to this and I can't believe how simple it was I just take the ohms I am using such as 1.2 @ 12 watts = 178 heat flux 1.3 @ 13 watts = 178 heat flux and so on I can't believe it became that simple
So I suppose all it takes is to find what heat flux you enjoy and adjust from there
I never bought that what I have read thru the last 2 years that 14 watts is 14 watts no matter what ohms you use it seems to me there had to be more factors involved
Just my thoughts
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