Hello,
Does anyone know why with the original Subtank mini the coils that came with it were
a .05 ohm coil and a 1.2 ohm coil i have noticed with the new subtank it comes with a .05 ohm coil and instead of the 1.2 ohm coil it comes with a 1.5 ohm coil
does anyone know the reason for this
thank you
Still semi new to vaping and have had my subtank mini for around a month and I have seen some unique builds lol, something that interests me and caught my attention is the vertical coil and to have the wicking around the coil instead of going through it. Has anyone tried this in the subtank mini? Pros/con's?thanks so much
So I decided to try a 1,6 ohm coil on kayfun v4 clone Tobecco and I am using 28gauge Kanthal with a cotton
wick on a Rdna 30 and its vaping well at 15 watts I have a kanger subtank mini coming in the mail and here goes my question
So the kanger subtank states that with a .5 ohm coil i could vape up to 30 watts but the voltage comes in at like 3.8 volts
I was under the impression that the rdna 30 needs at least 4 volts to work which kinda brings me to my second question
What is the point of of sub ohms? cant i just build a 2.0 ohm coil or something like that to achieve the results as if i was subohming
I am very confused on this
thanks for the replys in advance
Oh yea is a 1.6 ohm coil at 15 watts a normal build or any recommendations for the kayfun v4 for watts and ohms thanks again
Hello vapers! first! I'm a noob at this stuff because I just buy my tank and use it with the coils it comes with and second, my english isnt that good but I can understand it perfectly fine.
Anyway, Ive been searching everywhere but I couldnt find a solid answer to my question.
Im using an Aerotank Giant right now with a 1.8 ohm coil, if I put a 1.2 ohm I would have to use less voltage because I get a burnt taste and the coil burns pretty quick, Im about to order a Sub ohm tank soon and I'll use the stock coils, the one im getting is the Kangertech SubOhm tank.
Why do subohm coils use more voltage when normal coils use less?
I mean, Ive seen people do things like 0.2 ohm coil @ 100W + If I did anything over 3.5V on my 1.2 ohm coil itd burn instantly... SubOhm takes more voltage the lower you go and normal dual coils take less voltage the lower you go!
1.9 Ohm Dual coil = 3.7-3.8V for me
0.5 ohm OOC subtank sub ohm coil = 12-30W?!
Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply to this post and your patience!
Cheers!
Edit: by the way, Im planning to use my subtank with a 50/50 PG/VG 16mg nicotine, Is that ok?
Just bought the Kangertech Subtank..... Was told I couldn't use my Max VG juice and I needed to buy some of their lower VG juice. I told the guy no thank you, I know what i'm doing and I can make it wick the Max VG.
Needless to say I got home, the STOCK OCC coil, .5 ohm, wicks my Max VG perfectly fine, even with chain vaping.
I ripped the pre-made coil out of the 1.2 ohm OCC head, and built my own .6 ohm coil in it, wicked it with Organic Cotton (Not KGD or Bacon, Just organic cotton from Walgreens) and it wicks perfectly fine with my Max VG.
I built a single coil .7 ohm spaced coil, wicked it with the double tails on each side, cut off to where it touches the deck, but not touching the threads, put the chimney cap on, and made sure the juice channel was free of blockage, and it wicks perfect with the Max VG.
No leaks, no dry hits, running each OCC head at 30 watts, and the RBA deck at 35 watts.
This is the original Subtank, 6ml for OCC and 4.2 for RBA, (NOT THE NEW 7.0mL version).
So let me hear it.... What have you guys noticed or seen about the wicking ideas, why has yours not worked?
WHY DO SO MANY PEOPLE SAY YOU CANT USE MAX VG ON RTA's, especially on the Kanger Subtank????
I am new to the mod world and I entered the foray with an IStick 30 and a Kanger Subtank Mini. When I use an old cheapo tank that came off an earlier Ego my juice taste fine. It's a 2.7 ohm coil set at 7.5 watts at 4.5 volts.The problem is the taste with my Kanger hooked up. It is very harsh. I also do not get the same visible exhaust (sorry, but I can't think of another term ) I operate it at about the same watts. I have tried both a sub ohm coil and a 1.2 ohm coil. I have also tried different air intake settings. One thing to note: The cheapo tank gives me a much tighter draw (It's harder to draw in the air). I have adjusted the Kanger down to the smallest inlet and the resistance still seems very easy.
Would the difference in resistance of the coils affect the taste with running the same power. Do some juices just not taste good with different tanks? I must be doing something wrong. Maybe I assembled it wrong by leaving out something but for the life of me I can't see what? I did insert a little piece of cotton in one of the coils which was foreign to me.
Any ideas? Fire away and don't assume anything. Again, I am ignorant with these mods so I am learning here. Thanks a bunch
okay, so i had a problem yesterday where i would keep getting juice popping up on the draw, that problem is solved, however, now on only the second day of light use, on the 1.2 ohm coil that came with the tank i am getting a pretty harsh smokey taste. Its not overwhelming like it is when a coil is burnt out, just an unpleasant taste. I did 4 drops of liquid on the coil before using, everything is screwed in tight. Do i need maybe a couple more drops on the coil?
FYI: using an istick 30w burning at about 14.5-15w
Any suggestions for an inexpensive DNA 40 mod capable of firing the new Kanger 0.15Ω coil ? Need to know price for whole set-up including mod, batteries, and charger. Already have the Subtank Mini.
I can't find the post, but someone recently posted a helpful YouTube video on how to change cotton in a Kanger Subtank coil. I had no idea it was so easy, and I'm going to try it on my old coils. I've saved the video for future reference. My question is: how do you know when you need to change the cotton vs. when you need to change the entire coil? I don't think I'm up to doing my own coils yet. Is changing cotton just a way to prolong their life a little longer, and do you get to a point when you have to redo the whole shebang? Also, does any cotton from a vape store work, or do you need a specific kind depending on what kind of coil you have?
So I finally got around to putting a coil on the rba deck...my typical kayfun build, 28 ga @ 1.3-1.4 ohms. Everything looked good, coil tight....raised off the deck...screwed into the ohm meter....weirdness ensues....said 3.85 ohms...took it off, put it back on...said 4.6 ohms....looked to see if the coil screws were tight ...check. both tails tight under the screws...check. The coil deck screwed into the base...yep. No moisture in the base, nope. Put it on the ipv...said 7.7 ohms, then 4.2, then 3.90.............
Put the stock coils in the base, everything normal. Is there something I could be missing in the coil deck??? I got nothing else. No, I had not put the chimney on, so no short there. I may wrap another coil and see....I can only think that something is amiss in that little coil deck....or I am missing something in the build that is obvious. It's a really nice, tight looking coil too.
I ordered a new version of the Vamo V7 varible voltage 40 Watt mod and I am wondering if the Kanger Subtank Nano with a 1.2 ohm coil would be a viable combination. I want to try this tank just for the better flavor possibility but since the Vamo V7 is only rated down to 0.8 Ohms, I figure that I would have to use the 1.2 Ohm coil that is supplied with the Nano. I'm not quite ready to start dripping at this point in my vaping experience but want to get close to it. Are there any other tanks that would work better with the Vamo V7 than the nano? Thanks in advance for the advice.