I'm only on day nine with my new MVP3 and Nautilus tank (started out with the 1.6 BVC) and I'm down here... Yesterday as I was vaping my MVP shut down and wouldn't turn back on. I had just full charged it but tossed it on the charger anyway and it came back on. Took a couple of vapes and BAM, down again... Put it on the charger again and it came on again but this time the display was flashing two dashes in the ohms section.
So, I switched out to the other head that came with it, had a few vapes and WAMO, down again. Plugged it in, came back up, couple of vapes and down again and again this other head now flashes the two dashes in the ohms section. Now here's the weird thing... When I popped the second head on it read 2.3 ohms. I didn't think anything of it at the time, being new and all, but when I just went to confirm which head I used first and second I read the stamp on the second and it says it's only a 1.8 ohm head.... Another strange thing is that as I was vaping on this second head I changed the watts to improve the vape after a couple vapes and I noticed it read 2.5 ohms, then after a few more vapes it went down with the flashing dashes.
When I took out the second head I notice there is juice in the very bottom of the bottom hardware, where the head is screwed into. I'm assuming this means it was flooded, but being a rookie I could be wrong. At any rate.... I'm not happy vaper right now In hind sight I realize I should have bought some extra heads, but again... Rookies make rookie mistakes right In my defense though, the guy at the shop said I should have been good for a month with what I had bought so I thought I'd be good. I uploaded a quick video to show the MVP3 display and the bottom hardware in case it was needed. You can see it he
So now the questions... What would cause two new heads to die like that, or are they dead? Would it be a head problem or a problem with the MVP3? Am I correct regarding the fluid in the bottom hardware being a result of flooding, and if so what would have caused the flooding and could this have been the cause of the dead heads? And finally... What type of wire can I use to rebuild the heads? I've been reading a lot and watching a lot of videos on rebuilding over the past month or so and hear about nichrome, kanthal, and caplan... Does it need to be a specific type of wire or can I use some wire that I have here that I used for other purposes? Maybe an old guitar string? LOL
I'm desperate here.... I need my vape!!! I don't have the cash to buy new heads until around the 18th of the month and there's a carton of stinkys in the fridge and I do NOT want to resort to them if I start going bonkers Any assistance at all is greatly appreciated.
I am once again a happy vaper!!!! Ecstatic to be exact.
Graduation number one:
I have just very successfully rebuilt my first Nautilus BVC coil. Wasn't even as difficult as I thought it would be and didn't take nearly as long as I thought it would. I am now a forever rebuilder! I was a little worried because I didn't have any wire or filler material here, or so I thought. However, as I posted in the wick and coil section I literally tripped over an old hair blow dryer in my bedroom and did some research and discovered that the heating elements in them are nichrome wire.
I tore that sucker apart and uncoiled all the nichrome wire in it and discovered two things. One, there was actually three different gauges of nichrome in this particular hair dryer, all three kind of close in gauge. Second, different strand of gauge came out to about 20 feet or more each, so I ended up with over 60 feet of nichrome free. Below is a pic of the three strands, the strands go from the thickest gauge on the left to the thinnest on the right:
So I had my wire but needed filler. I was gonna use this medical gauze I have here but wasn't sure if it was pure cotton or not as there was nothing on the box that said what it is made of. But then my cute little neighbor knocked on my door and asked to borrow a screw driver. I obliged her and on a hunch, her being female and all, I asked if she used those round cotton pads to remove her makeup. She does and gave me a partial pack of about 50. Wooo Hooo, off the the races....
So I queued up Hawkeye's Aspire BVC Rebuild video on Youtube and got to work. I very carefully took apart the 1.8 ohm head that came with my Nautilus and saw what I believe was the problem with it. See the pic below:
OK, I'm a newb and all.... But that black wick doesn't look right, it looks like it's been burnt. I may be wrong and someone can correct me if so. I only used this once and only got maybe 2 vapes on it before I got the flashing dashes. Plus, while the coil is stretched out here, I did that after disassembling it. I carefully removed the wick from the coil and it was in the two pieces as shown in the epic. They were kind of touching each other inside the wick, but it seems like the wick burnt out and separated or maybe they had broke during manufacturing, or packing, or whatever... At any rate, it does indeed look like a defective coil.
So, I watch Hawkeye's video and build along with him and am very proud to say I believe I rebuilt this coil pretty damn well, you can tell me from the pic:
Is it just me, or is that one sexy looking rebuilt BVC? I used the thinnest gauge nichrome from the pic above and followed Hawkeye's method with the exception of giving my coil three extra wraps. I should have taken a pic of it.... Oh well.
So, with the coil rebuilt I grabbed a beer, put my Nautilus back together with the new rebuild, filled my tank and fired it up. BAZINGA!!!! She fired up at 2.1 ohms!!!! I was aiming for 1.6, but the three extra wraps probably added the extra from what I've read here on amount of ohms to coil wraps and wire gauge. I've now been happily vaping away for the past two and a half hours and the ohms are sticking between 2.0 and 1.9 with the odd jump to 1.7.
I gotta say here too, this is even better than the original Nautilus BVC. Now I understand why people rave about cotton and DIY rebuilds and such. I'm getting a lot more flavor, a much better throat and lung hit, and an awesome natural draw, and I'm not getting that sizzling/gurgling noise I was getting with the stock heads. Which leads me to my second graduation.....
I have broken the Tootle Puffer barrier and am now vaping at 28 watts. Hey, I don't mind Tootle Puffing, but I do like the bigger hit I get with the higher wattage. Been hitting this thing pretty hard though LOL. I never broke down and went back to the stinkys while my unit was down, and a big part of that was because I actually missed my vaping more than the stinkys.... I think a small part was also because I got so preoccupied with solving the issue with my hardware I didn't have time to think about stinkys.
Again, I want to thank everyone who helped out in my original thread about the problem. I love this place man!!!! I'm now a lifer both here and to vaping. Now I can't wait to get more equipment and also start doing DIY juices.
So I decided to get another clearomizer and the Donner by Amigo Itsuwa is what I got to replace my Aspire Atlantis.....
So here are my thoughts on it and it's just My Opinion:
Holds 4mls of juice - holds more juice so I'm not refilling my tank 2-3 times a day
.50hm Coil head is cotton & Kanthal wire & a wire mesh around the opening for better wicking ( You can use Atlantis coil in this thing and it's better in this tank then it is in the Atlantis) It comes with 2.
There's no notches or trying to center the coil head. It sits in the Clearo and just sucks juice lol
Great Flavor sub-ohm - The flavor you get from this is amazing, I was a little taken back bc I chose a sour raspberry and it really was more sour tasting then in any of the other tanks I had the same juice in
I personally like the drip tip but it's not for everybody
Adjustable air flow control is a wide slot - It's a slide around, but the draw from almost closed to full open is nice any way you wanna vape.
Vape production is great I use 10/90vg - 20/80vg
There are some things I don't like about this tank...
Priming the coil is a process - on a fresh coil the directions state to drop a few drops onto the coil, then once tank is filled let sit for 1-2 minutes prior to use. On your second fill of the clearo you have to let the coil sit for 2 minutes b4 use....I kinda wanna fill and vape, not fill and wait
Holding 4mls of juice is great, but if you can't vape 1ml of juice at the bottom of your tank it sucks. You can't vape the last ml of juice because the coil head sits to high so it can't wick the remaining juice.
I did find that when I put the Atlantis coil head in that the wicking was alot better then the coils that it came with, now this could be bc I am using a high vg juice.
So let's talk price....I bought this at a B&M so I paid A LOT more then what I've found online.
My price was $45.00
I have found these online for as little as $23.00
and for this price I would probably buy it again, not for $45.00
Iv'e been vaping on this for about a week now, I've gone through 2 coil heads in 4 days & now put the Atlantis coil head in it and am having better luck with it.
So there's my thoughts on my new clearomizer.
I just bought a Subtank Mini yesterday and have used the 0.5 included OCC head for a couple hours and wasn't that impressed so decided to wick up the RBA section. So, my question is...is there any RIGHT way to save this head for a later use such as soak in grain alcohol, or is it even done for if it dries out? Thanks for any advice.
A quick back story to start. I was a 1-2 PAD smoker for about 5 years. I found vapes and quit smoking. I was able to stop vaping and smoking for 18 months until I picked up smoking again for a few years. I have once again been able to stop smoking and started vaping again. Simple transition, some willpower for sure, but I have kicked the habit completely. When I started vaping again I purchased an Istick 50w and a troll. Have been using 3mg liquid only. It's been about six weeks smoke free again and I want to, not only upgrade, but reward myself. I read and read and watch reviews non stop, my head hurts from all of the stuff out now. I use my mod consistently at 45 to 50 watts. I have a 0.4 dual coil build and a chuff top. The heat from the vape is less than perfect, but I like the vapor production. I am interested in temperature control as well. If I need to buy two mods to have everything I want, so be it. Not that money isn't an issue, but right now it isn't a factor. I have been looking at IPV3, Sigeli 150, IPV4, Mech Mods, you name it I have looked and can probably tell you the specs off the top of my head. I just can't decide! I need your help ECF! I know I want at least dual 18650, as my Istick lasts maybe half a day until I need to charge. Good flavor and large vapor production atty, temp control, and good ergonomics. Thanks in advance for all input and help.
Anybody know if the Subtank RBA head will fit the new Subtank Plus? I would assume so, but. Same with the factory heads, are they interchangeable?
Im asking because my original subtank got stolen but I still have the RBA heads and factory heads left and Im wondering if they will work in the Plus.
The sub ohm coil head is $3.39 each and the hollowed out tube is $9.99 each from Hoosier ecig. Whats the difference? Is the more expensive one any better? Could it vape at higher watts or last longer?
Atlantis sub-ohm(0.5ohm) Coil Heads from Aspire
Kanger EVOD heads
I am looking at buying a large ammount of kanthal from lighting vapes. They told me it was China wire but higher quality then most China wire (whatever that means) and assured me it was A1. I am wondering, anyone use lighting vapes specifically. Would go through Temco but the shipping is crazy pricey on E Bay to Canada and way to long otherwise. Lighting Vapes I am looking at 1450ft of varying gauges for 106$ shipped, wire for life-hopefully literally lol, thats a lot a wire. So, is it as good as Temco wire? I really hope it is and doesnt taste disgusting or whatever seeing as I am getting 1000ft of my primary 24/26g and 450ft of 22, 28, 30 and ribbon haha.
So I just bought a new Nautilus 2S. I looked at YouTube videos beforehand and I saw that it has a leak proof system. But when I unscrewed the bottom to make sure that I have the right coil pre-installed, the entire bottom came out, similar to the Nautilus 2. Is all versions of the Nautilus 2S with this locking system or some don't have it? I tried hard to unscrew the very bottom but instead it came out like the 2 so I took off the glass and changed the coil, put the glass back, filled from the top and started vaping. Did I do something wrong?
I have the Smok xPro M80 plus and I have a couple Kanger subtank minis I use with it. I usually use .5 ohm coils. Sometimes it will show the ohms fairly correctly at .54 or even .61, which seems close enough. However, as I puff, the ohms reading will tend to change after every few puffs. Sometimes it will even say up to 1.5 or 2.0 ohms on the same tank coil! One tank seems to do it worse than the other, but the two I use now both will change quite often, and once in awhile quite drastically. It sometimes helps if I unscrew the tank and screw it back on, but if it isn't really tight, the ohms read are really far off from what they should be. I'm not sure if it is the tanks or the M80 plus that has the problem. When it reads really high, if I don't catch it before I take a puff, it is horrible and burny-dry, since it thinks the ohms are so high...
Has anyone else had this problem and/or have any ideas as to how it can be fixed??
By the way, I've cleaned the connections and everything thoroughly, so it's not that...
okay so don't laugh but this is really an amazing vaping experience/setup for me! I have two batteries and a dual 18650 charger, so I never have to charge onboard nor do I find myself with no power since I always have at least one charging. I love the simplicity of the cloupor mini 30w. Between the magnetic battery door, simplistic screen/button setup, and the overall minuscule appearance of it, I think she's beautiful! The arctic tank however, I've had a could problems, but not too bad (Yes, I did allow my atomizer head to soak for a full 24 hours in juice.) Before I get into that tanks problems though, I'd like to also include that I've been getting into dripping aswell. I bought a plume veil clone a while ago for around 30$, and i was dumb enough to think that there was no need for a VV mod over $15... therefore I bought an X6 battery (cringe, I know..) and long story short I had a terrible experience. the wire that came with the rda was iffy, and it also came with silica wick; which I hate. I ended up building some kinda ****ed up maelstrom of a build. I used the cotton ends of ear cleaners, the questionable wire that came with the atty, and I ran it all at a mind melting 4.4v. Best part of it is that I had no way to check how many ohms I was pushin out. Anyways, I digress. First problem with the Arctic sub ohm tank was the "Check atomizer" deal on my cloupor. The problem was that the connector pin for the mini 30w isn't spring loaded, so I had to whip out the mini screw driver and adjust it. Once that was fixed, the atty was working perfectly!! Except, I was getting a little burnt taste. That's when I've learned that with this tank you have to start at a low wattage and work up to 30 when you're starting vaping for that session. The airflow is good, but I hate airflow; so it's even more splendid that the lowest airflow setting is barely any air at all. Really. It feels like sucking through a brick, and I like it. A ton of flavor, I vape eucalyptus mint flavored juice right now, and I'm loving it. I can't even express to you guys how much I'm loving this thing! Thanks for the advice in telling me to get it!