(mods feel free to move this if needbe, not sure where it should go)
So, i just spent 800 on a new faux suede sectional. tried for the life of me to avoid it, but the inevetible happened and some hawk sauce dripped on the cushion... if you have ever owned a faux suede couch you know how rediculous getting anything out of it is... nearly impossible. ALAS! i have the solution that i could not find anywhere! the trick: get a bottle of rubbing alcohol. apply a TINY amount, just a bit more than the spilled juice, take a cloth, blot at it for a minute, then get your vacuum, and suck it all up. it will take a couple tries but i got most/all of it out in a few tries. do NOT scrub at it though, just lightly blot at it and vac, and repeat. great results on a mocha colored couch of faux suede (polyester with a small amount of polyurethane)
Anyone have a remedy for this other than flip the cushion over? I've dabbed up as much as will come up but other than that I don't know what to do.
Are they really to be avoided? I want to buy a bulk supply of some faux Kangertech BVCs, but not if it'll be cheaper, in the long run, to buy the real thing.
Screen not turning on? Inconsistent firing? Not powering on and/or inconsistent power?
This is how I fixed mine and it may work on yours.
Disclaimer: Always attempt to contact Squid Industries warranty services first to see if they will replace it. You can find the email on their Instagram page. If that doesn't work, try what worked for me.
- Step 1: Remove batteries. Hold power button for 10 seconds.
- Step 2: Unscrew the 3 screws at the top. 2 are star-head and 1 is a very small Phillips head.
- Step 3: lightly push upwards on the fire button. If it will not come up, try reaching in the battery compartment and lightly pushing upwards with a finger or back end of a screwdriver.
- Step 4: Once the component is out, lightly separate the two halves by wiggling the pin connector out of the socket. Don't pull too hard. Don't want to rip out the wires which will stop from separating the two halves entirely.
- Step 5: Cleaning time. Dab off the majority of juice with a paper towel. Grab a soft toothbrush and a small cup with rubbing alcohol. Lightly brush the Alcohol over the visible surfaces. Wait until it dries. Repeat until it no longer seems oily after drying off (once or twice should do it).
- Step 6: Take a look at the red and black wire connected to the underside of the bit your tank/RDA screw into. Does the red wires rubber sleeve not cover either end of the wire? Can you see the metal wire? If you do, proceed to the next step.
- Step 7: See the black goop that is melted onto the underside covering the solder? Go ahead and carefully pull that off, as much as you can. Don't pull at the wire, just the black melted rubber goop that is over the solder.
- Step 8: Using your fingers or very lightly with a set of pliers or tweezers, stretch the red rubber sleeve over the exposed wire. Alternatively, if you are good with electrical tape, you can use that to cover up the exposed wire.
- Step 9: Grab an inch of electrical take and slap that over where the black goop was. Try to press it to the surface and wires as good as you can get it.
- Step 10: Make sure all the alcohol has dried and put it all back together. If you'd like, you can attempt to put a rubber band around the seam to prevent future juice from getting in (I didn't, but I thought of it afterwards).
If the juice was messing with it, it should work. If the power was shorting to ground, it should work. If it still does not work, contact Squid Industries and politely request to purchase a new chipset for $35 instead of buying a whole new vape.
I know the general recommendation is to use Everclear or vodka. I haven't had a drink of alcohol in 22 years, but I see no good reason to keep a bottle of potable liquor around for cleaning my gear if there is reasonable alternative. I just bought a bottle of 70% Isoppropyl alcohol for this purpose from the drugstore. It should be a better solvent than vodka at 140 proof, and it evaporates cleaner than ethyl alcohol. A water rinse should remove any unevaporated alcohol, not that there is much chance of harm from inhaling a miniscule amount of isopropyl. I currently dunk my minipro heads in near boiling water, then rinse in running hot water, which works reasonably well on the exposed wick but probably doesn't do jack for the portion inside the coil.
My English not good but hope u guys understand....
I have question...I am gonna talk about rtas....soooo we got the air flow part of the tank when is the coil and that we suck air through it...and there is the juice part where holds the juice....and thing that seal the 2 spaces is the cotton....the juice reaches to the coil throught this capillary action I guess...I was thinking tho while we suck don't we create also vacuum and draw more juice if the airflow can't keep up with our draw?? And if that's correct then...this space that holds the juice should be sealed good so that it can't draw air lets say for example from the top fill cap and then push more juice into the coil cause it will have the atmospheric pressure?? Or maybe it's the opposite and the vacuum we create while we puff should get lose over time while we don't vape??? I am trying to get more understanding about how stuff works hope makes sense and someone can correct my mistakes and make things clear for me
74 days without a cigarette so I’m still new to this whole vaping thing.
Started with Juul, got tired of refilling pods very quickly.
Switched to a Smok Nord. Have grown tired of the hit/miss with cools.
Just got my Zenith tank. Went ahead and got the Kroma/Zenith kit and it’s my first non-pod setup.
Like it so far. Only issue so far is there seems to be a lot of juice coming through when I take a hit. When I take a drag but put a thin white piece of cloth over the tip there is a very noticeable amount of brown stain on the cloth. Had the same issue when I got my Smok Nord but I corrected by switching from 50/50 nic salts to a 70v/30p freebase.
Currently Using the same 70vg/30pg 6mg Halo Tribeca.
Using the 1.6ohm coil;
Started at 14 watts;
Dropped to 11 watts and it reduced the juice but also the temp of the vape.
Adjusting the airflow doesn’t really make a difference.
Anyone else having the same issue with the amount of juice coming into their mouth? Is this normal with this type of setup? Did I flood the coil or something? I primed it with 5 drops then let it sit for about 10-15 minutes before taking the first hit.
Will probably limit it use at the house because I don’t want to carry around so much weight in my pocket.
Most are free + shipping....a few are buy something get free (good deal)
an on going list that i've tried to keep....
feel free to add your own
Vapor Gurus free 350 ego-t kit (with ce4 and usb charger) for purchase of 10ml bottle of juice ($6)
Free greensmoke kit for first time customers only
Real Feel ecigs 3 disposables for free
Vapes.com free gift (it says, with every purchase, but not sure if that really is or not)
Madd Catt: Send Txt Get Free Juice
Grand Terrace Beta Testing Juices
The Vapor Room free sample for first time customers
The Ecig free sample
Vape Genie one time only free sample must register an account
Vermillion River $3.50 sample use coupon code FREESAMPLE to make it free, just pay shipping
Vista Ejuice $3.00 for 5 pack sample
Hurricane Vapor free juice for first time members use code free5promo, must register first before code will work
MadTown Vapor 2 free samples for new customers
Apollo ecigs free sample
Vista Vapors free sample
ECF ONLY
The Vapor Station, 2 Free Bottles of Juice For A Review
[edit]sorry if this is the wrong forum....wasn't sure....figured general discussion (ish)
So today I decided to go check out a B&M that is near me, but further away from the other B&M's closer to me. The place is called The Vapor Lounge and it is located in Warwick NY. If anyone ever finds themselves in the Hudson Valley, I highly recommend checking this place out. Went there to check out some different brands and flavors of juice, ended up leaving there with some new juice, a new mod, and a new RDA (and my first one at that).
The Vapor Lounge Warwick NY
Spent quite a bit of time talking with the owner, Zack, sharing stories on how and why we got into vaping. All his prices either matches, or is slightly better than prices you can find online. Ended up buying a SX Mini M Class ($200), Freakshow Mini ($25), a couple of JMK WD Pico+ drip tips ($20 each), and a couple of other delrin drip tips with a stainless steel cover ($5 each and shown in the picture). I also picked up two bottle of Voltage by the Juice Guys in 3 mg and a bottle of Dragonaire by Tasty Cloud in 6 mg.
Zack recommended the Freakshow Mini as a good starter RDA that gives great flavor. He spent over a half hour walking me through and showing me how to build a nickel coil for it and wicking it with cotton as he built me a coil for the Freakshow Mini, and he didn't charge me for the coil building. He then walked me through all of the options in the menu of the SX Mini. They do have a rewards program where you earn $1 for every $10 you spend on hardware, so I've accumulated enough points on this one purchase for a bottle of juice. As I left, he said to come back whenever I have any questions or issues, even if it is with stuff that I did not purchase from him.
He has definitely earned a lifetime customer.
I have seen very different explanations of vapor production on ECF, sometimes quite weird. So, I decided to clarify a bit the process.
Disclaimer: I am not involved in any e-cig research, but I have some background in physics.
Aerosol – a cloud of tiny particles (for us – liquid droplets) in air. Each droplet is too small to be visible individually, but it reflects a tiny amount of light in odd directions and all droplets together look like a cloud or fog (clouds and fog are water aerosol).
Solubility. Solubility could be full (infinite), like PG in VG or alcohol in water, or limited, like salt in water. If solubility is limited, then saturation point exists – excess of salt will not dissolve in water, will stay on the bottom of the cap. If we leave a cap with solution, water will evaporate with time and more and more salt will settle on the bottom (like in Great Salt Lake). The same true for air. For example, water is soluble in air, but its solubility greatly depends on temperature. If after a hot humid day we have a cold night, amount of water which was good for air at high daytime temperature will become excessive for low night temperatures and excess of water dissolved in air should “settle” somehow; the result we usually see is dew or fog.
Human lungs are famous for their wetness and they provide exhaled air with a lot of water in gaseous state at the temperature of a human body. But when a human body is outside at low temperatures exhaled gases (warm air + gaseous water) are chilled and will contain excess of water, which will “settle” as tiny droplets, i.e. aerosol, and we will see clouds of exhaled breath. Nice evaporator, always with us (just add a cold room)…
Boiling. Easy explanation for single liquid system (like water). Heated to boiling point temperature water will boil and produce water vapor. A bit more complicated is boiling of two component liquid, like PG-VG mixture. Liquid will boil as a single system (no separate boiling of its components) at a temperature between boiling points of its components and it will produce vapor of both PG and VG.
Now to vaping. Coil heat liquid supplied by a wick and transfer it into gaseous state (by boiling). But this vaporized liquid can stay in gaseous state only in small area of hot air surrounding a coil. Air draw is chilling this gaseous mixture and PG and VG form tiny aerosol droplets, our beloved clouds.
What’s wrong in my simplified explanations. When multicomponent liquid boils it produces more vapor of its components with lower boiling point, sometimes much more. For example, if we vape 30/70 solution of PG/VG, then PG (boiling point 371 F) will evaporate much faster than VG (477). If things were going as I described above, pretty soon we will be vaping almost pure VG (PG will be gone). It could be even worse. Suppose we have a third component – raspberry ketone (raspberry flavor) with boiling point of just 284 F. It should be gone in no time and most of the tank will be left flavorless.
Fortunately things are a bit more complicated then were described (a bit more complicated than my ability to comprehend them fully). In reality we have a mild overheating and a mild undersupply of liquid by a wick, plus mostly unidirectional liquid movement along a wick. In these conditions boiling produce vapor which is much closer in it composition to composition of a juice.
John currently vapes 5 ml a day of 24 mg Nic Juice.
John goes out and upgrades to a new mod and John decides to cut the Nic level in their Juice by half, down to 12 mg Nic Juice.
John now vapes 10 ml a day of 12 mg Juice with their new hardware.
Basically, my question is - Is John consuming the same amount of Nicotine as before, but they are vaping twice the amount of juice and spending double?