What Kind Of Wire Should I Be Using?

Just a little warning to all who have purchased the Lemo 2- Do not use the wire included in the box.
I was a little worried when i was using the stock coil and noticed it had been turning a green color after a few days of use, not sure if this is the case with all Lemo 2's, but if you notice your wire is turning greenish, just throw it out and replace it. I don't believe this is kanthal, it could possibly be nichrome, but it's properties are not matching up with those of kanthal. My worries were confirmed when I decided to put a parallel 5 wrap coil on my rda with that wire because of my lack of other 24 gauge... Well today when I took out my cotton and dry burned the coil a little to rid it of excess juice, the coil actually deformed and somewhat melted on my rda . I don't know what kind of metal this is, but I'm positive it is not kanthal, this has never happened to me with kanthal, and this wire seems to be of a lower resistance than kanthal. Anyway, just wanted to let ya'll know to be careful with that wire, or just throw it out altogether. Otherwise, the Lemo 2 is a fantastic tank  

Hey folks,

Have been getting into vaping on temp control (DNA40) devices with Nickel Wire builds in RDAs. Does anyone have experience with cleaning these builds to extend life? You can't dry-burn Nickel Wire the way you can Kanthal so I haven't figured out a way to clean these builds other than rinsing as well as possible and rewicking.

Hate the idea of having to rebuild every time but if that is what needs to happen I'll do it.  

I am looking at buying a large ammount of kanthal from lighting vapes. They told me it was China wire but higher quality then most China wire (whatever that means) and assured me it was A1. I am wondering, anyone use lighting vapes specifically. Would go through Temco but the shipping is crazy pricey on E Bay to Canada and way to long otherwise. Lighting Vapes I am looking at 1450ft of varying gauges for 106$ shipped, wire for life-hopefully literally lol, thats a lot a wire. So, is it as good as Temco wire? I really hope it is and doesnt taste disgusting or whatever seeing as I am getting 1000ft of my primary 24/26g and 450ft of 22, 28, 30 and ribbon haha.  

I never used anything but Kanthal and Nichrome wire to build my coils.

All things being 100% equal (wire gauge, coil type, coil diameter, ohms, etc) do SS coils require more power to run to get the same vapor as the exact same coil/resistance made from Kanthal or Nichrome wire?  

Hey guys just recently got a Lemo2, wasn't happy with the coil that it came built with for some reason so built my first one to put in. I think it came out pretty good, I believe it came with 24g Kanthal and I did 11 wraps around 3.5mm came out to 0.9ohm. It takes a while to ramp up but seems to give a nicer vape to me than the stock one which was like 5 wraps around 2mm at 0.5 ohm.

Anyways, I tossed the original coil and now am wondering if I really had to or could have saved it. When you guys try new coil builds do you save your older builds? And being that it's really just resistance wire does a coil ever really need to be replaced or is it just for novelty/trying new builds?  

I found this semi-old spool of kanthal in my drawer that was unopened, I threw out the packaging so I don't remember what it the company was but it was something along the lines of "Tuff #24 galvanized kanthal resistance wire" but I built a couple of coils and they all short, I've tried it on 3 diff attys and still shorts, I made sure its not touching any other metal or anything. It was a dirty but i washed it with soap and water and its not grimy or greasy from machine oil but parts of it aren't shiny like wire is supposed to be they're gray-blackish. Is that causing the problem.  

When calculating builds on Steam Engine for parallel builds, is the wrap count the total of wraps counting each strand, or total wraps for the unit of strands?

Example: I want build X using 2 parallel strands of 28g Kanthal, and for my given resistance, SE says use 14 wraps. Is that 7 wraps with parallel wires, or 14 wraps counting the parallel wires as a single wire?

Thanks in advance, guys. I'm trying to experiment with some creative builds and I want to waste as little wire as I can on missed resistance.  

Hey everyone,
I've been vaping for about two years now, and have decided to start dripping. For the last few weeks, I have been dripping on an IGO-W, 26G Kanthal single coil (7 wrap micro coil reading at 0.8ohms) on my iStick 30w.

I just recently purchased a new battery that should arrive today, and was wondering if anyone had advice/tips on producing some fat clouds! Dual Coils? Different coil builds? Number of wraps? Watts to vape at? I think you get the picture lol.

The items I will be using are as follows:
-SMOK XPRO M80 Plus
-IGO-W
-26 Gauge Kanthal Wire
-Japanese Organic Cotton
- 80vg/20pg Juices

All input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Tyler  

This mod company claims temp control with any kind of wire ! I don't know about the rest of you but i think this would be pretty awesome if it works, what do you guys and gals think? Also it seems to monitor juice level and will flash a reminder to refill juice.




Asolo Specification:

1. The mod can support almost all tanks from 0.08ohm~2.5ohm.

Remarks:
It can support 0.05ohm but we are not recommend you to do it because it may be dangerous.
2. It is various device from 5w~200w
3. Heating coil material: KANTHAL A1, Titanium (Ti), Nickel (Ni200), other normal materials for wire

Asolo 200W_Shenzhen IJOY Technology Co.，Ltd. - Ijoy e-cigarette/Most electronic cigarette manufacturer innovation  

I've always wondered whats better for efficiency. In a regulated mod I can't imagine it really makes a difference in vape performance, I'm currently keeping my builds at a lower resistance by winding parallel coils. My goto build comes to about 0.4ohms and I run it in the range of 28-38w, usually set at 32w, if I wound it in series it would be around 1.6ohm which would need about 7v to get to 30w and at my Aegis solos max voltage of 8v would provide 40w. The only issue with this is that it limits the wattage range you can run at, since I sometimes do crank this build upto 42w, although it does start to burn above 45w.

The one advantage of running at a high voltage and a lower current is that theoretically there should be less energy loss in the transmission of power to the coils (like in the pin, the posts and the wiring connecting the 510), although depending on the construction of the mod/tank it may not be significant enough to provide any benifit. I can imagine that it's not that simple either as the mod is having to boost the voltage more which may cause the voltage conversion efficiency to suffer. Although in my dual cell mod it may be benificial since the input voltage is around 6.4-8.4v, although I tend to use this for my higher wattage builds.

This may just be me because I'm obsessed about how much voltage is dropped across cables, I always use the high quality wiring and keep it as short as possible because it is actually quite surprising how much energy you can loose through a cheap cable. Even good quality wire at higher amps can drop a significant amount of power.